How to store backpack blower

Practical steps to clean, drain fuel, protect the motor and store your backpack blower safely to extend its service life, prevent corrosion and ensure reliable startup next season.

For gasoline engines: either run the system until the carburetor and fuel lines are empty, or add a commercial fuel stabilizer and run the engine for 3–5 minutes to circulate treated fuel through the carburetor. If the model has a carburetor drain screw, open it and collect residual fuel. Remove the spark plug and spray a few short bursts of fogging oil or light two-stroke oil into the cylinder, then pull the starter slowly until you see oil on the plug – this prevents corrosion during inactivity.

For electric models: remove the battery pack and store it separately at approximately 40–60% state of charge. Keep cells in a cool, dry location between roughly 5–20 °C, away from direct sunlight and metal objects that could short terminals. Check charge level every 3–6 months and top up to the target range if it drops below ~30%.

Cleaning and minor service before putting the unit away: clear debris from the impeller/tube and air intake, wash or replace filters (foam filters: wash, dry, lightly oil; paper filters: replace if soiled), inspect fuel lines for cracks and replace as needed, tighten exposed fasteners, and lubricate throttle linkages or pivot points per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Store with controls secured and the unit resting on its designed supports – do not hang by straps or sheath tubing over sharp edges.

Environmental control and safety: keep the tool in a ventilated room with low humidity; place silica gel packs or desiccant in the storage container for prolonged idle periods. Label containers with date of last service and fuel treatment. For short-term idle (30 days) follow the fuel-treatment or fogging steps above and inspect before first use after storage.

Drain fuel and run engine until carburetor is empty

Close the fuel valve (or pinch the supply hose) after warming the engine 2–3 minutes at half throttle, then run until the unit stalls – typically 10–30 seconds – and pull the starter 3–5 additional times to evacuate residual fuel from the carburetor.

Procedure

Warm the engine 2–3 minutes to thin fresh gasoline and vaporize light residues; warm fuel drains and clears jets more readily than cold fuel. If a fuel petcock exists, switch it to OFF while the engine is idling; if no valve is fitted, siphon the tank into an approved gasoline container (use a hand pump, not mouth siphon).

After closing the valve or siphoning, operate the engine at half throttle until it stalls. Expect the run-down time to vary by model and remaining fuel volume – commonly 10–30 seconds after the valve is closed. Perform 3–5 full starter pulls after the stall to actuate the carburetor needle and expel trapped fuel from the float bowl and metering passages.

For units with a primer bulb, depress until it stays firm after the stall; do not press repeatedly to avoid reintroducing fuel. If visible fuel remains on the carburetor bowl or inlet, tip the machine carefully to drain into the approved container and wipe with a lint-free rag.

Safety and fuel handling

Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area with the engine cool; wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection. Capture drained gasoline in a red, labeled, approved jerrycan; use within 30 days or take to a household hazardous-waste facility for disposal. Keep drained fuel away from ignition sources and hot surfaces while transferring.

After purging, disconnect the spark plug lead before any further maintenance. Reconnect the plug only when ready to run the engine again. Do not leave residual fuel in supply lines or primer bulbs – trapped fuel causes varnish and sticking of small-diameter passages over weeks.

Clean air filter, cooling fins, and intake/exhaust ports

Inspect and service the air filter every 10 hours of use or monthly; replace foam elements near 50 hours and paper elements near 100 hours, earlier if torn, oil-soaked, or collapsed.

Air filter: specific procedure

Remove the element and examine for tears, oil saturation, or compressed dirt. For foam: wash in warm water with a mild detergent, rinse until water runs clear, squeeze gently (do not wring), air-dry 1–2 hours. Lightly oil with dedicated foam-filter oil or a few drops of two-stroke oil; massage oil through until evenly coated with no dripping, then reinstall. For paper: tap against a hard surface, then blow from the clean side outward with shop air at ≤25 psi and from 6–8 inches distance; discard and replace if fibers break or holes appear. Never use gasoline as a cleaner and never operate the unit without a filter or with a loose filter cover.

Cooling fins and intake/exhaust ports: targeted actions

Remove the shroud to access fins; clear leaves, grass and packed debris with a nylon brush and low-pressure air (≤25 psi). Do not use metal scrapers that can nick fins; inspect for cracks or bent fins and replace damaged components. While shroud is off, check the flywheel cooling path for obstructions and verify that all shroud fasteners are snug per the manufacturer’s torque spec.

For intake and exhaust: allow the engine to cool, disconnect the spark plug, then remove the muffler to expose the exhaust port and spark-arrestor screen. Use a brass-bristle brush and a non-chlorinated carburetor/exhaust solvent to remove carbon deposits; cover the intake with a clean rag to prevent debris entering the cylinder. Replace the exhaust gasket and spark-arrestor if the mesh is clogged or perforated. Service frequency: inspect these areas every 50–100 hours or immediately if power loss, heavy smoking, or abnormal vibration occurs. Wear eye protection and a respirator when using solvents; reassemble only after all parts are dry and gaskets seated.

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Apply a thin film of light oil to exposed metal and fog the cylinder for extended layup

Coat external metal parts with a thin, corrosion-inhibiting oil and fog the combustion chamber with dedicated fogging oil or a small measured amount of light motor oil before leaving the machine idle for months.

Materials

  • Fogging oil aerosol (preferred) or 2‑stroke oil / non-detergent SAE 30 if fogging oil unavailable
  • Light machine oil or aerosol corrosion inhibitor (e.g., light mineral oil, 3‑in‑1 equivalent, or a VCI spray)
  • Syringe or oil can (5–15 ml capacity)
  • Spark plug socket and ratchet
  • Clean lint-free rags and nitrile gloves

Procedure

  1. Warm the engine to operating temperature so internal components are not cold and oil spreads more evenly; bring to normal running temp for roughly 5–10 minutes.
  2. External coating: spray or wipe a light film onto exposed steel and aluminum fasteners, control linkages, choke/throttle pivots and frame joints. Apply sparingly – visible sheen, no drips. Remove excess with a rag to avoid dirt attraction.
  3. Fogging via intake (recommended): remove air-cleaner element or access carburetor throat. With engine held at moderate RPM (approx 1/2 to 3/4 throttle), apply short bursts (1–2 seconds) of fogging oil into the intake while the engine runs; repeat 3–6 bursts until thin smoke appears, then shut the engine off. Allow machine to cool naturally.
  4. Fogging via spark-plug hole (alternative or additional): remove spark plug, inject 5–10 ml of fogging oil or light motor oil into the cylinder using a syringe, turn the crankshaft slowly by hand or pull the starter 2–3 times to distribute the oil, then reinstall the plug (do not crank excessively after oiling).
  5. After fogging, wipe any oil from external painted surfaces and from areas that must remain clean (labels, handles). Coat exposed threads (spark-plug thread lightly, using a tiny dab) and cable ends with light oil to prevent corrosion.
  6. Final check: ensure no oily pooling in intake or on components that could attract dust; vents should remain clear. Log the date and method used for future reference.

Inspection recommendation: check oil film and cylinder condition every 2–4 months during extended idle; reapply a thin film if surface oxidation appears. Avoid heavy application; thin, even coverage protects without creating grime.

Disconnect battery and keep it at about 50% charge in a cool, dry area

Disconnect the pack from the machine, set charge to roughly 40–60% (aim for ~50%), and place the battery in a ventilated, low-humidity location between 2–15°C (35–59°F).

If the pack has a charge indicator use that; otherwise measure open-circuit voltage: target ~3.7–3.8 V per cell for lithium‑ion chemistry. Do not leave the pack connected to the charger or the equipment during storage.

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Insulate terminals with non-conductive tape, remove loose metal objects from the vicinity, and put the pack on a shelf above the floor (avoid direct sunlight, garages that reach high temperatures, and concrete floors). Keep relative humidity below 60%.

Storage duration Target state of charge (SOC) Recommended temperature Check interval
Up to 1 month 40–60% 2–15°C (35–59°F) None required unless obvious issue
1–6 months 45–55% 2–15°C (35–59°F) Every 3 months; recharge to ~50% if SOC falls below 30%
Over 6 months 50% (maintain) ~10–15°C (50–59°F) preferred Every 2 months; top up to ~50% when SOC <30%

Do not store at temperatures below −20°C (−4°F) or above 60°C (140°F); exposure outside these limits risks permanent capacity loss or safety hazards. For packs with built-in BMS enable its storage mode if available. Store batteries separately from flammable liquids and keep them in an approved container or on a non‑combustible surface when possible.

Hang or support the shoulder-mounted leaf machine to relieve straps and protect fuel lines and cables

Suspend the metal frame – never hang from shoulder straps, throttle cables or the fuel tank. Use a load-rated hook (minimum 100 lb / 45 kg) with a 10–15 mm diameter and a 12 mm neoprene or PVC sleeve to spread pressure and prevent abrasion.

Attach to solid frame tubing or the factory hang-eye. Position the hang point close to the centre of gravity (typically the top cross-tube) so the unit hangs level; a level hanging angle limits torque on mounts and prevents straps from carrying the load.

Route fuel lines along the frame with gentle curves; avoid sharp bends and kinks. Leave 10–20 mm of slack at each hose end and secure lines every 100–150 mm with soft Velcro straps or rubber-lined clamps. Keep hoses at least 30 mm away from exhaust surfaces and heat sources.

Protect electrical cables by coiling loosely (loop diameter 100–150 mm) and fastening with hook-and-loop straps; do not use metal clips that can cut insulation. Cap or tape electrical connectors, and keep them elevated above possible drips or dust.

If using a shelf or stand, support the unit on two contact points under the frame rails with 6–10 mm rubber padding to prevent scratches and slipping. For freestanding racks, use a cradle that supports at least twice the unit’s weight (typical weight 7–14 kg) and prevents forward/backward tipping.

Before hanging, inspect all hose fittings and cable jackets; replace any components with visible wear. For brief reference on cleaning accessories, see how to get wii scrubber.

Michael Turner
Michael Turner

Michael Turner is a U.S.-based travel enthusiast, gear reviewer, and lifestyle blogger with a passion for exploring the world one trip at a time. Over the past 10 years, he has tested countless backpacks, briefcases, duffels, and travel accessories to find the perfect balance between style, comfort, and durability. On Gen Buy, Michael shares detailed reviews, buying guides, and practical tips to help readers choose the right gear for work, gym, or travel. His mission is simple: make every journey easier, smarter, and more enjoyable with the right bag by your side.

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