Michael Turner
Best window: mid‑June–early‑September for reliably passable highland routes. Expect long daylight (up to 20–24 hours around late June), average daytime highs 5–15 °C inland, frequent wind and rain; short cold snaps with night temperatures down to -2 °C remain possible at elevation. Main routes close or become impassable outside this window due to river levels and early snow.
Route specifics and distances: Laugavegur: ~55 km between Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk, typically 3–4 days. Fimmvörðuháls: ~25 km one‑way or 1–2 days with steep sections and lava fields. Hornstrandir: remote reserve requiring boat access and complete self‑sufficiency; no huts. Interior F‑roads require a high‑clearance 4×4 for access to trailheads; river fords can be hazardous and often force cancellations.
Logistics: Use scheduled summer bus and private transfer services from Reykjavík or regional towns to reach popular trailheads; check vegagerdin.is for F‑road status and safetravel.is to register itinerary and receive alerts. Reserve all hut beds through Ferðafélag Íslands well ahead of high season; many huts operate as fixed‑capacity dorms with check‑in rules.
Essential kit and target weights: Aim for a base weight of 6–9 kg and a carried total of 12–15 kg. Required items: waterproof/breathable shell, efficient insulating midlayer and down jacket, merino or technical base layers, 3‑season or high‑wind tent (if not using huts), sleeping bag rated to at least -5 °C, stove with sufficient fuel (butane/propane canister compatibility varies by supplier), lightweight water filter or purification tablets (glacial whitewater is not safe to drink untreated), trekking poles, map+GPS, headlamp, first‑aid kit and a PLB or satellite messenger for remote areas.
Glaciers and technical sections: Any route crossing glaciers or permanent snowfields requires ropework, crevasse‑rescue skills and crampons; hire a certified guide for glacier travel. Steep volcanic ridges and loose scree demand sturdy boots and careful route‑finding; many rescues occur after attempted solitary river fords or underestimated conditions.
Environmental and regulatory guidance: Use established campsites and marked trails wherever possible; obtain landowner permission before camping on private holdings. Leave no trace: pack out waste, avoid vegetation trampling in fragile moss and geothermal areas, and follow signage in protected areas. For up‑to‑date weather forecasts consult vedur.is and check local access rules for national parks and nature reserves.
Practical advice for trekking across the North Atlantic island
Recommendation: Book mountain huts on the Laugavegur route and Fimmvörðuháls well in advance; Laugavegur is ~55 km normally covered in 3–4 days, daily stages of 12–20 km; Fimmvörðuháls is ~25 km often done as a single long day between two glaciers.
Mandatory equipment: waterproof breathable outer shell (Gore‑Tex or equivalent), insulated midlayer, windproof shell; sleeping bag rated to at least −5 °C; sleeping pad with combined R‑value ≥3.5 (closed‑cell foam + inflatable preferable); tent designed for strong wind (or use maintained huts); gaiters, robust trekking poles, lightweight crampons and an ice axe if crossing glaciated terrain or icy passes. Pack volume: 35–50 L for multi‑day hut‑to‑hut trips, 50–70 L for independent camping with stove and fuel.
Food and fuel planning: allow 3,000–4,500 kcal per person per day depending on exertion; gas canister consumption typically 70–120 g per person per day for stove cooking–carry an extra canister for contingencies; iodine or UV purifier recommended but most hut sites provide potable water from streams or springs–always check local advisories.
River crossings and glacier travel: avoid unbridged river crossings after heavy melt or rain; use wading boots and poles, unclip hipbelt, cross in groups, and test depth with a pole–do not attempt deep swift channels. Glacier travel requires rope teams, crevasse rescue skills and local guide services; private attempts without technical experience greatly increases risk.
Permissions and camping rules: many interior areas are on public highland common ground where wild camping is tolerated if not on pasture or cultivated land, but private landowners may prohibit camping–obtain permission when on private property; prefer established campsites and official huts during peak season to reduce impact and avoid fines.
Seasonal access and transport: highland roads (F‑roads) open roughly June–September depending on snow; 4×4 vehicles required for F‑roads; seasonal bus services connect Reykjavík with major trailheads–reserve seats and drop‑off dates early, especially in July–August.
Weather and forecasts: expect summer daytime highs around 5–15 °C; nights near 0–5 °C in interior highlands; storms can produce gusts exceeding 20–25 m/s (72–90 km/h) and sudden temperature drops–check the national meteorological service (vedur.is) and safetravel.is for alerts before departure and during the trip.
Navigation and communication: carry a topographic map and compass plus a GPS device or offline map app; satellite messenger or PLB recommended for remote sections with no mobile coverage; register itinerary with family or a central contact and with local bus operators’ return schedules.
Waste and sanitation: use hut toilets where available; pack out non‑biodegradable waste and carry sealable waste bags for used toilet paper if facilities are absent; avoid digging catholes on peat or sensitive ground; follow strict Leave No Trace principles to protect fragile tundra and moss beds.
Best months and trail conditions for multi-day trekking
Recommendation: schedule multi-day treks primarily from mid‑June through mid‑September; most highland routes are reliably passable between late June and early September, with the peak window in July.
- Daylight & timing:
- Late June: near‑midnight sun in southern and central areas (~20–24 hours).
- July: long daylight (typically 18–22 hours) – maximum time for long daily mileage.
- August: daylight decreases to ~13–18 hours; late August shows more frequent Atlantic storms.
- Early September: 11–14 hours; nights noticeably colder.
- Temperatures (summer averages):
- Low elevations: 5–12°C (41–54°F) daytime; nights 0–6°C.
- Highlands/plateaus: 0–10°C (32–50°F) daytime; nights often around freezing until July.
- Snow, ice and technical hazards:
- Snow patches common above ~600–700 m into July; permanent glaciers require rope, crampons, ice axe and technical skill.
- Early season (June): some high passes still impassable without mountaineering gear.
- Late season (September): first winter snow can appear at higher elevations, increasing exposure risk.
- River crossings and meltwater:
- Peak discharge during late May–June; crossings deepest and fastest then.
- By late July–August flows reduce but sudden heavy rain can spike water level; always have a backup route or known bridge points.
- Recommended equipment for risky crossings: river rope, two trekking poles, neoprene socks or drysuit for guided glacier rivers.
- Trail surfaces and footwear:
- Expect a mix of boggy moor, scree, volcanic ash and packed gravel; full waterproof boots and gaiters advised.
- Mud and peat sections can double walking time after rain; consider microspikes for icy remnants in early season.
- Access, services and bookings:
- Highland gravel roads (F‑roads) typically open late June–early July and close in September–October depending on snowfall; check road authority updates before travel.
- Mountain huts and staffed shelters operate mainly mid‑June–end of August; book popular sections 2–4 months ahead for July.
- Boat transfers to remote peninsulas run June–September; seats sell out on peak dates.
- Month‑by‑month quick guide:
- June – variable: bring crampons/axe, expect deep river fords and residual snow; best for those comfortable with glacier/fording skills.
- July – optimal trail clearance and services; busiest period, reserve huts early.
- August – stable trails with cooler nights; increased rain storms possible, shorter daylight late month.
- September – quieter trails, colder nights, higher chance of early snow and reduced services; allow extra contingency days.
- Essential gear notes:
- Layering system with waterproof outer, warm midlayer, and a sleeping bag rated to at least -5°C for post‑storm nights.
- Navigation: map, compass, GPS unit with spare batteries; mobile reception is intermittent in remote areas.
- River safety kit and lightweight repair kit for shelter; include a reliable large umbrella for wet transfers and hut approaches: best large stick umbrella
- Pre-departure checks:
- Verify weather and avalanche forecasts from the national meteorological service.
- Confirm road/F‑track openings with the road authority and check hut/boat timetables.
- Build a 1–2 day food and shelter buffer into itineraries for storm delays or high river flows.
How to plan routes, F-road access and permit requirements
Use road.is and safetravel.is to verify F-road openings and river-crossing warnings; most F-roads are passable from mid‑June through early September, with peak accessibility in July.
- Route selection:
- Prefer established tracks shown on topo maps (Icelandic map services or Gaia/OSM overlays). Mark alternate exits every 10–20 km.
- Estimate daily distances by terrain type: 15–25 km/day on hard gravel roads; 8–15 km/day across volcanic sands and rough highland moraine.
- Plan river-crossing avoidance where possible; add 2–6 hours per significant crossing for scouting and contingency.
- F-road vehicle requirements and rules:
- Only high-clearance 4×4 vehicles are suitable for F-roads. Expect deep fords and loose scree on many stretches.
- Rental agreements often prohibit river fording; breaking that rule voids insurance and causes financial liability. Confirm policy in writing before departure.
- Always check official F-road status the morning of departure; weather or maintenance closures are common at short notice.
- Permits, bookings and land access:
- Most interior trekking routes do not require an access permit, but huts and managed shelters require advance booking (online reservation systems for mountain huts operate year‑by‑year).
- Protected reserves and privately managed highland areas may require permits or prior registration for group visits; consult the reserve’s official site or local municipality for application procedures.
- Crossing private farmland or using farm roads often requires landowner permission; obtain written approval when a route intersects agricultural property.
- Safety and official resources:
- Register a trip plan on safetravel.is and update it if timings change; emergency response crews rely on those registrations.
- Monitor weather at vedur.is and road.is multiple times per day while on the move.
- Carry a satellite communicator or PLB for backcountry travel away from mobile coverage; mobile networks are sparse in the highlands.
- Practical checklist before departure:
- Confirm F-road openings and recent river reports (road.is).
- Verify vehicle rental terms re: river crossings and off‑road fines.
- Book huts/campsites and secure any reserve permits required by the route.
- Download offline maps and mark emergency exit points and refuges.
- Leave a trip itinerary and expected check‑in times with a contact and via safetravel.is.
- Penalty and environmental rules:
- Off‑road driving is illegal and enforced with substantial fines and possible vehicle seizure; stick to marked tracks and designated campsites.
- Wild camping restrictions apply in some protected zones; use official campsites where specified and follow Leave No Trace practices.
For gear selection and sun/wind protection options for coastal staging points, consider reviews such as best type of beach umbrella when choosing shade and shelter for basecamps near fjords.
Water, food and resupply strategy for remote highland routes
Carry a minimum of 3 litres of treated water and 3 days of food per person between known resupply points; when crossing central highlands plan for up to 7 days of food and capacity for 4–6 litres per person if snow-melt or long river sections are likely.
Water – sourcing, treatment and storage
Prefer spring outlets, small clear tributaries and ponded side-pools rather than main braided glacial rivers; main glacial channels contain heavy silt that clogs filters and abrades membranes. Use a two-stage system: a fabric or paper prefilter for gross sediment, then a 0.1–0.2 µm hollow-fibre or ceramic filter for protozoa and bacteria. Carry chlorine dioxide tablets as backup (contact time ~30 minutes for Giardia, ~4 hours for Cryptosporidium at cold temperatures). A UV pen (SteriPEN) is an excellent rapid option with clear water; bring spare batteries. Melting snow requires roughly 3–5 times the snow volume per litre of water and consumes significant stove fuel–melt in a covered pot and break snow into small pieces first. Pack 1–2 collapsible reservoirs (2–3 L each) and a thermally insulated bottle for overnight storage; keep spare O-rings and a repair kit for filters.
Food, fuel and resupply logistics
Plan on 3,000–4,500 kcal per person per day for sustained high-exertion travel. High-energy, low-weight staples: nuts (≈600 kcal/100 g), nut butter sachets (≈580 kcal/100 g), olive oil (≈880 kcal/100 g), dense energy bars (~400–500 kcal/100 g), and freeze-dried dinners for evening meals. Typical daily food weight using dense items: 400–800 g per person; therefore a 5-day carry equals ~2.5–4.0 kg. Fuel planning: reserve 80–150 g of gas-equivalent per person per day in summer; if melting snow or cooking in sub-zero conditions budget 150–250 g/day or use a liquid-fuel stove with a spare fuel bottle. Gas cartridges and basic groceries are available in larger towns (Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir), while farms and petrol stations in rural areas offer sporadic supplies. Arrange resupply through booked stays at mountain huts or farms, or by scheduled vehicle rendezvous at accessible roads; leaving unattended caches on public land is discouraged. Add one extra resupply day as a contingency for weather delays.
Carry at minimum: mechanical filter (0.1–0.2 µm), 20 chlorine dioxide tablets per person per week, UV pen with spare batteries, spare filter parts/O-rings, two collapsible reservoirs, and waterproof storage for food waste to pack out. For fuel economy, decant liquid fuel into a dedicated leakproof bottle and store gas cartridges insulated from extreme cold. For unrelated household appliance reviews see best heat pump tumble dryers.
Campsite rules, shelter options and stove/fuel regulations
Camp only at marked campsites or with explicit landowner permission; wild camping is generally forbidden on private farmland and near inhabited buildings – maintain a minimum distance of 150 m from houses, farm buildings and fenced livestock areas.
Municipal campsites: pay-and-stay sites in towns and near major attractions provide toilets, showers and waste disposal. Backcountry campsites: basic sites along popular routes often require a fee, have defined tent platforms and fragile vegetation protection; use established pitches only.
Mountain huts and cabins: three main types appear–bookable staffed huts with beds and cooking facilities, unmanned shelters with bunks and no services, and emergency-only shelters that must not be used for overnight stops unless in distress. Check availability and booking rules before arrival; many huts lock outside high season and require an access code or key deposit.
Open fires are prohibited across most protected areas and discouraged elsewhere because of scarce fuel and sensitive soils. Use a portable stove for all cooking; when a fire pit is provided, use only supplied wood and follow site signage.
Fuel type recommendations: isobutane/propane screw-on canisters are common for summer use; white gas (naphtha/paint-store “camp fuel”) performs better below freezing and for longer stints. Avoid gasoline/petrol stoves unless specifically permitted by hut operators.
Fuel logistics: threaded canisters and refill cartridges are sold in major towns and outdoors shops in Reykjavík, Akureyri and Egilsstaðir; availability dwindles in remote regions. Airlines generally prohibit transport of pressurized fuel canisters in checked or carry‑on luggage – plan to buy locally or carry empty, depressurized canisters for recycling.
Fuel consumption planning: budget roughly 50–100 g of isobutane/propane blend per person per day for basic cooking in mild conditions; double that when melting snow or cooking for groups. For white gas stoves, carry spare 0.5–1.0 litre containers for multi-day trips in cold conditions.
Stove safety and hut rules: never operate liquid-fuel stoves inside enclosed huts without explicit permission and ventilation; use a stable heatproof base to avoid scorching tent floors; store spare fuel in original, approved containers away from sleeping areas. Carry waste canisters and empty fuel cartridges out – disposal bins at major campsites only.
Leave No Trace specifics: avoid camping on vegetation, pack out all toilet paper and hygiene waste where facilities are absent, and follow posted rules for each reserve or national park to prevent fines or eviction from sites.
FAQ:
Can you backpack in Iceland?
Yes, backpacking is possible and popular, especially on marked long-distance routes such as the Laugavegur Trail. You can hike for multiple days using a mix of mountain huts, campsites and occasional resupply points. Keep in mind that weather can change quickly, some interior tracks require river crossings and a high-clearance 4×4 to reach trailheads, and glacier travel demands technical skills or a guide. Plan your route, check trail and road status ahead of time, and allow extra days for delays caused by conditions.
What clothing and equipment should I take for a multi-day trek in Iceland?
Pack for wind and wet weather rather than heat. Core items: waterproof and breathable jacket and trousers, insulated mid-layer (down or synthetic), moisture-wicking base layers (wool or synthetic), sturdy waterproof hiking boots, warm hat and gloves, and extra socks. For shelter and sleep: a lightweight, strong tent rated for exposed sites or bookings at huts where available, and a sleeping bag rated to roughly -5 to 0 °C depending on season and personal tolerance. Navigation and safety: detailed maps, compass or GPS device, charged phone with offline maps, headlamp, and a basic repair kit. For winter or glacier routes add crampons, ice axe and rope with proper training. Cooking and water: a stove + fuel, lightweight cookware, and either water filters/tablets or a reliable method to treat stream water. Also carry a first-aid kit, emergency bivy or shelter, and some extra food for delays. Keep pack weight balanced and only bring items you will use; many popular routes have huts or campsites where you can resupply or dry gear.
