Michael Turner
Recommendation: For heavy cotton items (duck, canvas-like weaves), use fiber-reactive textile colorants such as Procion MX. Target dosing by weight of fabric (WOF): 1–3% for pale shades, 4–6% for medium tones, 8–12% for deep saturation. Use a 1:16 liquor ratio (fabric:water), dissolve 10–15 g/L sodium carbonate for fixation, allow reaction time 12–24 hours at room temperature, then rinse in progressively warmer water until clear and machine-wash on warm with mild detergent.
Synthetic textiles: Polyamide (nylon) responds to acid-type textile colorants in a mildly acidic bath; maintain 80–90°C for 30–60 minutes with acetic acid ~5–10 ml per liter, cool and rinse. Polyester requires disperse colorants and high-temperature application (~120–130°C) with carriers or press/steam methods; home attempts often give poor results–use a specialist recoloring service for reliable polyester results.
Mixed fabrics and hardware-heavy packs: Apply acrylic-based textile paints or permanent fabric markers for targeted coverage. Work in thin, even layers to avoid stiffness; allow 24–48 hours curing, then heat-set through a protective cloth with an iron on medium for 3–5 minutes. Tape or remove metal/plastic fittings before treatment; straps made of polypropylene or webbing may not accept colorants and often need separate handling.
Preparation and testing: Pre-wash to remove finishes and grime. Perform a patch test on an inconspicuous seam to confirm adhesion and shade. If the item has a durable water-repellent (DWR) coating or laminated membrane, strip that coating with a dedicated cleaner or choose paint-based solutions; coated surfaces rarely accept fiber-reactive or acid colorants evenly. Expect thread, zippers, foam, and linings to take color differently–plan for touch-ups.
Safety and aftercare: Use nitrile gloves, eye protection and ventilation; avoid aerosolizing pigments. Neutralize and dispose of spent baths per local regulations. Wash the treated item separately for the first three cycles at warm temperature; verify colorfastness with a wet rub test. For small corrections, use a matching fabric marker or spot-paint and re-cure as above.
Coloring a Pack: Practical Recommendation
Recommendation: Match colorant chemistry to the fabric type – fiber-reactive products for cotton/heavy cotton, acid products for nylon/polyamide, disperse systems for polyester (requires high temperature or specialist equipment) – and avoid aqueous colorants on PU- or PVC-coated surfaces.
Best colorant choices and parameters
- Fiber-reactive (cellulosic fibers): target temperature 40–60°C; fixation with soda ash or sodium carbonate; typical loading by weight-of-fabric (owf): 1% = pale, 3–5% = medium, 8–12% = deep shade.
- Acid (nylon/polyamide): raise temperature gradually to 85–95°C, maintain 30–60 minutes; acidifier: citric acid or white vinegar guided by supplier dosing; owf: 1–3% light/medium, 4–6% deep.
- Disperse (polyester): requires 120–130°C under pressure or carrier-assisted baths; home success limited – consider specialist services or heat-transfer inks instead.
- Coated fabrics, laminated areas, leather or suede: use solvent-based fabric paints, spray acrylic textile coatings, or leather-specific stains; textile colorants typically will not penetrate coatings.
Step-by-step procedure
- Disassemble: remove straps, buckles, rigid frames and metal fittings where possible; mask fixed hardware with waterproof tape to prevent staining.
- Clean: launder or hand-wash in warm soapy water to remove dirt, oil and water-repellent finishes; allow to dry or proceed while damp depending on product instructions.
- Weigh fabric portion to be colored; calculate colorant mass: fabric weight × desired percent (e.g., 0.03 for 3% owf).
- Prepare bath: liquor ratio 1:20 is a practical starting point (1 kg fabric in 20 L water); dissolve powdered colorant in hot water before adding to main bath to avoid specks.
- Fixation and agitation:
- Fiber-reactive: maintain 40–60°C, add soda ash after initial contact, stir gently for 30–60 minutes, then leave for 12–24 hours for full reaction if recommended by manufacturer.
- Acid: slowly bring to near-boil, hold 30–60 minutes with periodic agitation for even uptake.
- Disperse: use dyeing equipment or professional service; home stovetop attempts give poor fastness.
- Rinse sequence: rinse in warm water until runoff clears, then in progressively cooler water; use mild detergent for final wash and spin or air-dry away from direct sunlight.
- Fastness test: perform a wash test at 40°C and a dry-rub test on an inconspicuous area; if transfer occurs, re-wash with color-fixative or consider sealing with a fabric medium.
- Do not attempt aqueous coloring on narrowly coated areas; coating will crack or repel color.
- For polyester-heavy constructions, prefer spray textile paints, screen prints or professional disperse processes rather than home baths.
- Leather or suede trims require dedicated leather stains or acrylic leather paints; textile colorants will not adhere reliably.
Safety and handling: wear chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection and adequate ventilation; avoid pouring concentrated solutions into household drains – neutralize according to local regulations.
Which materials accept color: heavy cotton duck, nylon, polyester, leather
Match colorant chemistry to fiber: heavy cotton duck – fiber-reactive (Procion MX) for permanent, washfast results; nylon – acid or cationic colorants at acidic pH and elevated temperatures; polyester – disperse colorants requiring high heat or specialist carriers; leather – purpose-made alcohol or water-based leather colorants and sealers.
Heavy cotton duck (heavy cotton)
Use fiber-reactive colorants (Procion MX) for best uptake and washfastness. Procedure: prewash to remove finishes, apply colorant in warm water, fix with soda ash (follow product dosing) or pre-soak in soda ash solution, keep material damp and enclosed 6–24 hours, rinse cold then warm until runoff clears, launder gently. All-purpose household colorants (e.g., Rit) will tint cotton but deliver inferior colorfastness compared with fiber-reactive chemistry.
Nylon, polyester, leather – specific approaches
Nylon (polyamide): use acid dyes or formulations labeled for nylon/silk. Heat the bath to ~80–95°C (176–203°F) but avoid sustained rolling boil; maintain mildly acidic pH (~4–5) using vinegar or citric acid per manufacturer ratios; stir gently 30–60 minutes, rinse and neutralize. Expect deep, fairly permanent color; avoid alkaline fixatives.
Polyester: requires disperse colorants and high-temperature fixation. Home-friendly options include proprietary polyester dyes (iDye Poly or commercial disperse dyes) applied at boiling temperature for 30–60 minutes or via steam/pressure methods. Polyester resists aqueous colorants; attempts with fiber-reactives or acid dyes give poor uptake and rapid fading. Thermally sensitive trims and linings may melt – separate components before processing.
Leather: use leather-specific colorants (alcohol-based aniline dyes, oil/pigment dyes, or water-based leather paints). Remove factory finish if present (denatured alcohol, leather preparer), apply thin coats, allow full drying between passes, then seal with resolene or dedicated leather finish to improve wear resistance and water resistance. Suede/nubuck require dedicated suede dyes or color restorers and should not be treated with aqueous fabric colorants.
General practical notes: test a hidden swatch; remove hardware, straps, and poly-coated panels before treatment; coated or laminated surfaces rarely accept colorants without abrasive prep or chemical stripping. Expect linings (usually polyester/nylon) to respond differently than outer fabric. For outdoor gear pairing recommendations and sun-protection accessories, see best beach umbrella for sun and wind protection and best upf beach umbrella.
How to prepare a pack for recoloring: cleaning, removing hardware, and patch testing
Empty all pockets, unzip every compartment, detach removable straps and pouches, and tag each part with masking tape and a permanent marker for straightforward reassembly.
Cleaning and surface prep
Pre-wash with warm water (40–50°C / 104–122°F) and a mild liquid detergent: 1 tablespoon per litre, soak 20–30 minutes, agitate with a soft nylon brush on seams and high-contact areas. For heavy grime use an oxygen-based cleaner (sodium percarbonate) at roughly 2 tablespoons per litre for a 30-minute soak; rinse until no suds remain. Grease and oil spots: apply a grease-cutting dish soap directly, work in with a toothbrush, let sit 10 minutes, then wash and rinse. For stubborn exterior dirt on woven or synthetic straps, consider a pressure-assisted rinse – partner detergents with suitable equipment and surfactants such as the product referenced here: best car wash concentrate for pressure washer. Dry flat or hung in shade; avoid high heat or direct sun that can alter coatings or cause shrinkage.
Hardware removal and patch testing
Hardware removal: collect tools – Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, seam ripper, small adjustable wrench and tweezers. Remove metal clips, D‑rings and sewn-on webbing where possible; keep fasteners in labeled bags. If zippers or molded buckles are integral or heat-bonded, do not force removal – mask them with low‑tack painter’s tape and aluminum foil to protect finish. For metal parts that remain, coat with removable grease (petroleum jelly) to prevent staining during wet processing.
Patch test protocol: choose a hidden area (inside pocket or under top flap). Prepare a sample solution matching final planned concentration and temperature. Mark a 2×2 inch (5×5 cm) box, apply the product using the same method (immersion, brush or spray), let cure for 24–48 hours at room temperature, then perform three checks: 1) wet rub – briskly rub with a damp white cloth for 50 strokes to detect bleed; 2) wash cycle – launder at the intended wash temperature and detergent, then inspect for color loss or fabric change; 3) dimensional check – measure the test square before and after for shrinkage greater than 2–3%. If coating lifts, stiffens, flakes or significant bleed occurs, stop and choose a different method or professional treatment.
Which colorants and supplies to choose for cotton duck, nylon, polyester and leather
Use fiber‑reactive colorants (Procion MX) for cotton duck; acid colorants for nylon; disperse colorants for polyester; alcohol‑ or oil‑based leather colorants for hide goods.
Textile recommendations (cotton duck, nylon, polyester)
Cotton duck: select Procion MX or other fiber‑reactive powders for bright, wash‑fast results. Target 2–4% owf (on‑weight‑of‑fiber) for medium shades, 4–8% owf for deep. Apply at room temperature or mildly warm; fix with a soda ash solution and hold for several hours (commonly 6–24 h) before rinsing. Use Synthrapol or a non‑ionic surfactant for pre‑wash and post‑wash.
Nylon: use acid/aqueous colorants (Jacquard Acid Dyes or equivalent). Add an acid source (white vinegar or citric acid per manufacturer rates) to the bath and maintain a simmer at 80–95°C (176–203°F) for 30–60 minutes with constant gentle agitation for even uptake.
Polyester: choose disperse colorants formulated for polyester (iDye Poly, Rit DyeMore or commercial disperse powders). Polyester requires high heat exhaustion: near‑boil (100°C/212°F) or a pressurized/steam method for 30–90 minutes; many products recommend preheating and agitation to avoid uneven spotting. Tack a small test swatch under identical heat to confirm shade and fastness.
Leather recommendations
Use alcohol‑based or oil‑based leather colorants (Fiebing’s Leather Dye, Eco‑Flo, Angelus Pro) rather than textile colorants. Remove factory finish with a leather deglazer or isopropyl alcohol, apply thin coats with a wool dauber, brush, or airbrush, allow 10–30 minutes between coats, then seal with Resolene or a dedicated leather finish. Work in well‑ventilated area and use an organic‑vapor respirator for solvent‑based products.
| Material | Colorant type | Example products | Fixative / bath additives | Temp & time | Key tools / PPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton duck (heavy cotton) | Fiber‑reactive | Procion MX (Jacquard), Dharma Fiber Reactive | Soda ash for fixation; Synthrapol for washing; optional urea to help solubility | Room temp to 40°C (104°F); hold 6–24 h (2–4% owf medium) | Plastic tubs, measuring scale, stainless spoon, nitrile gloves, goggles |
| Nylon | Acid (aqueous) colorant | Jacquard Acid Dyes, Rit DyeMore (synthetic option) | White vinegar or citric acid as acidifier; low sudsing detergent for pre‑wash | 80–95°C (176–203°F) simmer 30–60 min | Stainless pot, thermometer, tongs, nitrile gloves, heat‑resistant stirring tool |
| Polyester | Disperse (high‑temp) | iDye Poly (Jacquard), Rit DyeMore, commercial disperse powders | Follow product for carrier or high‑temp/steam method; prewash with non‑ionic detergent | Near‑boil/steam 30–90 min; some methods require pressure/thermosol | Stainless pot or dyeing machine, thermometer, strong agitation tool, gloves |
| Leather | Alcohol‑ or oil‑based leather colorants | Fiebing’s Leather Dye, Eco‑Flo Leather Dye, Angelus Pro | Leather deglazer or isopropyl alcohol to remove finishes; neutral leather cleaner | Apply thin coats; allow 10–30 min between coats; cure 24 h before finishing | Wool daubers, brushes, respirator, nitrile gloves, lint‑free cloths, sealant |
Common supplies across materials: stainless steel or dedicated dye pots, digital thermometer, precise scale (0.1 g), measuring spoons, syringes or pipettes for small amounts, nitrile gloves, eye protection, non‑ionic detergent (Synthrapol), salt for certain exhaustion recipes, soda ash, citric acid, plastic drop cloths, and ventilation or respirator for solvent work. Test a hidden swatch with the chosen product and method before treating the full item.
Step-by-step home coloring methods: immersion for heavy cotton, heat or chemical processes for synthetics, and spray or brush techniques
For uniform, long-lasting color on heavy cotton rucksacks use fiber-reactive powders in an immersion bath at 40–60°C with salt and soda ash; for nylon select acid colorants at 80–90°C; for polyester choose disperse colorants under high heat or use surface paints for localized work.
Immersion method for heavy cotton (duck cloth, twill)
Materials: fiber-reactive powder (Procion-type), non-iodized salt, soda ash, large stainless pot or plastic tub, thermometer, scale, gloves.
Ratios and temps: 2–6% on-weight-of-fabric (owf) for most colors (2 g per 100 g fabric = pale; 6 g per 100 g = deep). Water: 15–20 parts water per part fabric by weight (e.g., 2–4 L per 100 g). Salt: 40–60 g per liter of bath. Soda ash solution: 30 g per liter added after initial wetting or as a 10% pre-soak for 20–30 minutes.
Procedure: wet fabric thoroughly, dissolve measured colorant in warm water, add to bath and stir. Add salt to promote uptake, immerse bag fully and stir/agitate for first 30 minutes, maintain 40–60°C for 30–60 minutes, then add soda ash solution slowly while stirring to raise pH and promote fixation. After 1 hour of agitation, optionally let sit at room temperature for 12–24 hours for increased fixation. Rinse first in lukewarm water, then wash in warm water with mild detergent until runoff clears, finish with cold rinse and air-dry.
Notes: avoid metal tubs. Measure fabric weight to calculate owf. Patch-test concentration on scrap to confirm shade and fixation.
Heat and chemical methods for synthetics; spray and brush techniques for details
Nylon (polyamide): use acid colorants (Jacquard Acid Dyes or similar). Ratios: 1–4% owf for light-to-medium, up to 6% for dark shades. Water: maintain 5–10 L per kg of fabric. Add 10–20 mL white vinegar per liter or equivalent citric acid to acidify bath. Heat to 80–90°C and hold 30–60 minutes with gentle agitation; allow to cool slowly for 30–60 minutes, rinse and wash with mild detergent.
Polyester: use disperse colorants formulated for polyester or commercial iDye Poly/Rit DyeMore. Best results require high temperature: near-boiling for extended time with strong agitation or pressurized steaming (home pressure cooker method improves penetration). Typical owf: 2–6% for most shades; increase to 8–12% for saturated blacks. Use 8–12 L water per kg, maintain vigorous movement for 30–60 minutes, then cool, rinse and wash. An alternative for localized work is solvent-based disperse transfer using a heat press and transfer paper.
Surface methods (spray/brush): products: textile acrylic paints, solvent-based fabric sprays, pigment inks. Spray technique: hold 15–25 cm from surface, apply 2–4 thin passes rather than one heavy coat, allow 10–15 minutes between passes. Brush technique: use textile medium to thin acrylics (10–20% medium), apply with foam or synthetic brushes in thin layers to avoid stiffening. Curing: air-dry 24 hours, then heat-set according to paint maker (iron through cotton cloth for 3–5 minutes on medium heat or oven cure at 120–150°C for 10–15 minutes if materials and hardware tolerate heat).
Safety and prep specifics: remove or mask metal hardware, test a hidden seam for adhesion and colorfastness, protect work area and wear a respirator for sprays. For synthetics with laminated coatings or PU finishes, adhesion may fail–use a solvent primer or choose paint labeled for coated fabrics. Always perform a patch test and follow manufacturer instructions for commercial colorants and paints.
