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Recommended carry: place the pair parallel along the pack’s sides so the baseplates face outward and the tails point above your shoulders ~10–20 cm to clear powder and reduce tip snagging. Center the bindings on the pack’s vertical axis for balanced weight distribution; offsetting more than 5 cm increases roll and torque on the harness.
Strap selection and placement: use webbing 25–50 mm wide with a cam buckle or 30–40 mm Velcro ski straps designed for alpine gear. For a side A-frame, use one strap across the binding area and a second 15–25 cm from the tail ends. For diagonal or vertical carries increase strap length to 60–90 cm and add a third stabilizer strap midway. Tighten until the planks do not move when you give the pack a firm shake; avoid crushing bindings or compressing brake mechanisms.
Protective measures: insert a 5–10 mm foam pad or rolled jacket between sharp edges and the pack fabric where edges contact hipbelt or shoulder straps. Route straps over protective layers to prevent abrasion. Secure poles by slipping them through the A-frame or lashing them alongside the planks with a short Velcro strap; tips should point downward or be capped to avoid punctures.
Safety check: after securing, perform a dynamic test: walk briskly 30 m, climb a short slope and check strap slippage and buckle orientation. Re-tension if any rotation appears. For steep skinning or technical sections switch to a diagonal carry with tips forward to keep the load compact and reduce interference with hip movement.
Choose the right carry style for your terrain: diagonal, A-frame, or vertical
For steep, technical uphill sections (25–50°) use a diagonal carry; choose A-frame for flat traverses and short walks under 30°; pick vertical when moving through crowded zones, lift approaches, or narrow ridgelines.
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Diagonal (best for steep and mixed terrain)
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- Angle range: 25–50°. Works well for planks longer than ~175–185 cm.
- Center of mass: lower and slightly offset – improves uphill edge control and reduces torso twist on steep pitches.
- Secure points: run one compression strap low around tails, shoulder strap across bindings, and route the second through the ice-axe loop or daisy chain to prevent swinging.
- Pole stow: collapse and clip poles vertically beside the planks or slide through binding holes to keep hands free for scrambling.
- Trade-offs: narrower profile than vertical but can interfere with hip-belt access and pack lid opening.
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A-frame (best for short carries and mellow terrain)
- Use on flat approaches, short trail walks, or when frequent on/off is expected.
- Angle range: 0–30°. Ideal for planks of any length when portability matters more than wind drag.
- Center of mass: high and centered; minimal effect on pack stability, rear panel access remains available.
- Secure points: clip tips together over the top of the pack and fasten tails to the lower compression straps; use top lid strap to keep tips from separating.
- Pole stow: tuck poles horizontally under the A or secure to side daisy chains to avoid interference.
- Trade-offs: low drag and quick to don/doff but less stable on steep terrain and can catch on trees if tips point outward.
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Vertical (best for crowded, lift, and tight routes)
- Use when moving through congested zones, on snowmobile corridors, or when walking narrow ridges where width is penalized.
- Angle range: 0–40°. Works best for shorter planks (<185 cm) or when you must keep hands free and pack profile narrow.
- Center of mass: high and close to the pack spine – good for trail walking and stair-like sections.
- Secure points: run two straps around the tails and tips (one low, one mid); route through shoulder strap or side compression to stop rotation; use tip-catch loops at top if available.
- Pole stow: clip poles to the opposite side or stow vertically next to the planks to maintain compactness.
- Trade-offs: increased frontal area and wind drag; better for short distance and low-wind conditions, less suitable for steep technical climbs.
Quick selection checklist:
- If grade >25° and approach >10 minutes → diagonal.
- If approach ≤10 minutes on flat ground → A-frame.
- If moving through crowds, lifts, or narrow trails → vertical.
Inspect and prepare gear: lock bindings, fold brakes, clear lash points
Set each binding to transport/locked mode and seat brake arms fully into their recesses; secure any brake leg that won’t lock with a rubber band or a short length of cam strap to prevent movement and scratching.
Check mounting hardware: torque on plate screws should be firm (hand-tight plus one-quarter turn with a driver), DIN indicator readable and matching your setting, and lateral play under 1 mm when wiggled side-to-side; any cracked plastic, deformed springs, or excessive play requires shop service before heading out.
If brake arms won’t fold flush, remove them per manufacturer instructions or immobilize by threading a webbing strap through both arms and cinching against the baseplate; wrap exposed metal with cloth or tape to stop rubbing against the pack fabric or other gear.
Clear all lashing points on the pack: free daisy chains, compression straps, and hipbelt webbing from ice, snow, and gear loops; coil excess strap length and secure with Velcro straps or small cable ties, and route remaining strap tails away from edges and buckles to avoid snagging during movement.
Stow small service items (allen key, spare screw, brake clip) in a labeled pocket or small case inside the main compartment; for travel logistics and orderly transport use a purpose-built travel bag such as this best luggage for soccer coach.
Step-by-step diagonal carry using compression straps and tip alignment
Place the pair diagonally across the front of the pack at a 30–45° angle with tips pointing toward the shoulder you plan to lead with; set tip protrusion to 10–20 cm above the pack lip and tails 10–15 cm below the hip-belt line.
Stack the two planks base-to-base (bases touching, edges opposite) to minimize edge contact; offset them so tips are aligned within 2 cm of each other to prevent levering under load.
Run the first compression strap across the pair at the binding zone: position this strap 25–35 cm down from the tip line. Route the webbing over the outer plank and under the inner plank to create a cinch that resists forward/back rotation.
Route a second strap close to the tails, 10–20 cm forward of the tail ends, crossing the pack horizontally. Thread the strap in the opposite pattern to the first (under outer, over inner) to lock both ends and stop longitudinal slip.
Tighten straps incrementally: pull until lateral movement is eliminated and you can lift the pack by the shoulder straps without hearing rattling. Target a firm feel without compressing core materials more than 3–5 mm or deforming sidewalls.
Add a third short strap or a lightweight cord at the midshaft (around the pole-clip area) if the pair still twists; wrap once and tension to prevent rotation but leave enough give for quick hand adjustment while on the move.
Confirm tip alignment: tips should track along the pack centerline, not flare wide. If tips sit more than 6 cm off-center, redistribute by loosening both straps, nudging the outer plank inward, and re-tensioning until offset ≤6 cm.
Final safety checks: lift and swing the rig 30° left/right to detect chatter; walk 20 paces and check that no part rubs the hip-belt hardware. If edges cut into the top sheet, add a 2–4 mm foam pad beneath the straps or reposition straps 5–10 cm away from the damaged area.
Step-by-step A-frame carry: routing through shoulder straps and hipbelt anchor
Recommendation: route the tips between the shoulder straps and lock the tails under the hipbelt anchor, tensioning until the A-frame clears your head by 15–20 cm and there is no lateral play when you give a firm shake.
Place the pair in A-frame orientation with tips up and tails together at the pack rear; bases face outward to reduce chatter. Position the pack on a stable surface so the hipbelt is accessible and the shoulder straps sit naturally over the pair.
Feed the shoulder straps into the gap between the two boards so each strap runs in the valley formed by the pair. Ensure straps sit flat, not twisted; the sternum strap should remain unbuckled for now to allow access and fine adjustment.
Use a short webbing sling (25–35 cm, 20–25 mm wide) or a dedicated ski strap to form the hipbelt anchor: pass the sling through the pack’s hipbelt loop or ice-axe loop, wrap it around the joined tails, and route the free end back through the sling to create a cinch. Position the cinch at the lowest durable point of the pack shell, centered under the tail bulge.
Tighten the hipbelt cinch until tails are snug against the pack body; you should see 15–20 mm compression on the strap material. Next, bring the shoulder straps forward over the tips and fasten the sternum strap at a comfortable breathing height so the tips lean slightly outward at ~10–15° from vertical, preventing contact with the head on climbs.
Add a secondary tie at mid-length if available: a compression strap threaded through the pack daisy chain and wrapped across the pair about 40–60 cm below the tips reduces torsion. If using leash cords, wrap them around the pair near the tails before cinching the hipbelt sling for redundancy. Fold or secure any protruding strap tails under a keeper to avoid snags.
Pre-move checks
Shake test: no visible movement; clearance test: tips ≥15 cm above head; balance test: load centered within 3–4 cm of the pack spine; brake/lever clearance: brakes/fittings tucked to prevent accidental release.
Maintenance note: wipe straps and webbing dry after wet outings and use gentle cleaners; for general gear washing recommendations see best car foam soap for pressure washer.
Quick vertical carry: binding loops and top lash for bootpack sections
For short bootpack pitches, carry the pair vertically with tips up and tails down, route the binding loops through a lower lash point, then secure the tips with one top lash to stop rotation and bounce.
Step sequence
1) Stand facing the slope with the pack on; place the boards upright next to the pack so their tails sit near the ground and tips point skyward.
2) Feed each binding loop through a low gear lash or webbing slot on the pack, then clip the loops together or around a single lower anchor to create a stable pivot at mid-height.
3) Wrap a 60–90 cm piece of 25–38 mm webbing once around both tips and the pack’s top haul loop, thread through a metal buckle or cam, and tension until snug–hand-tight plus one firm pull; avoid crushing edges or tip protectors.
4) Test by giving the pair a short forward/backward shove: minimal swing and no contact with shoulders or hipbelt indicate correct placement. Re-tension if there is movement.
Common setup choices
Place the pair centered on the pack spine, midpoint approximately 10–15 cm above the hipbelt to keep weight low and maintain balance during steep bootpacks; orient metal bits inward toward the pack to prevent snagging on clothing or poles.
| Component | Recommendation | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Lower anchor for binding loops | Dedicated lash point or reinforced webbing 10–15 cm above hipbelt | Creates stable pivot and keeps load close to torso |
| Top lash length | 60–90 cm (25–38 mm webbing) | Long enough to wrap tips and pack loop once; compact and quick to tension |
| Tension | Hand-tight + one strong pull | Prevents bounce without deforming tips or bindings |
| Orientation | Tips up, tails down; metal-facing-pack | Reduces interference with pole movement and crampon contact |
| Backup | Short elastic cord or small carabiner from top lash to sternum strap | Secondary restraint for steep, exposed steps |
Field checks: sway test, weight distribution, and rapid on-trail adjustments
Sway test procedure
Perform a 20-step sway test before leaving the trailhead and after every major terrain change: walk 20 normal paces, turn 90° twice, climb/descend 10 steps, then stop and observe tip movement. Target maximum lateral displacement: <5 cm; forward/backward shift <7 cm. If either exceeds these limits, make corrections before moving on.
Concrete test method: tighten all straps to your usual travel tension, mark one tip with tape against the pack shell, walk the sequence above, return to the mark and measure displacement with fingers (one finger ≈1.5–2 cm). A single-hop test (both feet) checks vertical stability – no audible clatter or sudden tip shift is acceptable.
Weight distribution rules
Place bulk mass low and centered: position 60–80% of carried weight below the top of the hipbelt and as close to the pack spine as possible. Limit the vertical lever arm: top of the load should not exceed 10–15 cm above shoulder strap tops. Lateral balance: keep the center of mass within 2–3 cm of the spine midline; if one side outweighs the other, move dense items (tools, fuel, water) toward the light side inside the main compartment to neutralize torque.
Rigging guideline: tighten hipbelt first (so hips bear primary load), then shoulder straps to remove gap, then chest strap to stabilize; final step – re-tension top compression to lock the load against the frame.
Quick verification: with hipbelt loaded, lean forward 15° and walk 10 paces; if the load feels like it pulls you backward or causes oscillation, shift 200–400 g of dense gear lower or toward the deficient side and re-check.
Rapid on-trail fixes (priority list with target times)
1) Re-tension top compression – 5–10 s. 2) Add a mid-length cross-lash (use pole loop or daisy chain) – 10–20 s. 3) Use pole shaft as temporary through-tip bridle and clip to sternum strap – 10–30 s. 4) Create emergency webbing bridle (1.5–2 m of 10–15 mm webbing + carabiner): route under pack frame, around gear, clip to hipbelt loop and cinch – 45–90 s. 5) For strap failure: remove load, route spare webbing under frame and tie a water knot or use a carabiner-as-pulley repair – 1–3 min.
Recommended micro-repair kit (carry on every trip): 2 m of 15 mm webbing, 1 small locking carabiner, 1 m of 4 mm cord, 0.5 m duct tape, 1 spare cam buckle or cord lock. With that kit you can restore secure mid-lash and a functioning strap in under 3 minutes.
After any fix, repeat a shortened sway test: walk 10 paces, make two quick turns, hop once. If movement persists, stop and perform a full re-rig (remove and re-route load) rather than continuing with an unstable setup.
FAQ:
Can I carry skis on a backpack for a short approach to the lift or hut?
Yes. For short approaches you can use the pack’s compression straps or a dedicated ski carry system. Two common ways are the A-frame (skis paired with bases together, tips up or down depending on pack shape) and the diagonal carry (one ski tip near top, tail near opposite hip). Secure skis tightly so they do not shift, tuck poles in or clip them to the pack, and keep load close to your back to avoid pulling you backward. Check straps before leaving and re-tighten after moving a short distance.
How should I attach skis if they still have climbing skins on them?
Skins require extra care to avoid damage and to keep adhesive clean. If you must carry skis with skins on, place them so the skin surfaces do not rub together; use a thin cloth or skin-saver between them. The diagonal carry often works best: slide the tails into a lower strap or place them under the hip belt, then bring the tips up and secure under the shoulder strap or a top buckle. If the pack has vertical sleeves, you can insert the tails and keep the tips up, but make sure skins aren’t scraped by buckles or rough webbing. Use a protective wrap or a piece of an old goggle bag around the skins where straps contact them. Finally, check skin glue after the trip and wipe off any grit before sticking them back on.
What methods stop skis from swinging or clanking when I walk through tight trees?
Minimize movement by pulling the skis tight to the pack and securing them at several points. Use the main compression straps and add a short length of webbing or a daisy chain strap around the skis near the bindings and lower down near the tails. A shock cord or a Velcro strap can dampen small swings. If your pack has a ski-carry webbing or a hood strap, route skis through those points so they sit flush with the pack. Also orient skis so their profile is narrow against your back or side: tails tucked under the hip belt and tips secured high reduces leverage and swinging.
Which carry — A-frame, diagonal, or vertical — gives the best balance on steep skintracks and long approaches?
The best balance depends on the terrain and how you move. A-frame carry (skis together on the back, bases facing out) keeps weight centered and low; it’s stable for steep skintracks where you need freedom to use poles and move your upper body. Diagonal carry (one ski across the pack) lowers profile and can feel less top-heavy; it works well for narrow trails and when you need to shoulder the skis occasionally. Vertical carry (skis tip-up beside the pack) is tidy for climbs where you want skis ready to put on quickly, but it raises the center of mass and can make balance on steep, technical steps more demanding. To choose: if you expect sustained steep skinning, favor A-frame or a low diagonal placement that keeps weight close to your spine. If there are many narrow trees or tight sections, secure skis low and snug so they do not stick out. Practice switching between carries before heading out, and always test your pack setup with the full load and in the boots you will wear.
