Michael Turner
Recommendation: Roll the pad with the foam on the inside, compress to a diameter under 10 cm, place it against the pack frame at shoulder level, and fasten with two 25 mm compression straps tightened to roughly 300–400 N (approx. 30–40 kgf) so the pad sits snugly without sagging.
If the pack has a daisy-chain or ladder webbing, route a 5–8 mm shock cord in a figure‑8 around the roll and through two rungs, secure with a trucker’s hitch or two half hitches, and leave a 10–15 cm tail tucked under the webbing. This reduces oscillation; aim for less than 5 cm vertical or lateral movement during a 3 km test walk.
For side mounting, use two quick‑release micro cam straps: one through the hipbelt stabilizer and one through the upper compression strap. Position the roll so its long axis is parallel to the pack’s spine and the top edge is level with the shoulder straps to keep center of mass high and close to body.
Water protection and wear: place the pad in a lightweight dry sack or use a silicone-treated sleeve if rain is expected; orient seams outward to shed water. If the pad’s packed weight exceeds ~1.2 kg or diameter is >12 cm, consider stowing inside the lid or main compartment to preserve comfort and stability on technical terrain.
Selecting anchor points on frameless, framed and ultralight packs
Use two independent anchor points – one upper near the shoulder-strap junction (within 5–10 cm) and one lower at hipbelt level or the bottom compression strap – and tension both to prevent sway and rotation of a rolled camp pad.
Frameless packs
Locate the upper anchor at the top grab loop or the stitched shoulder-strap webbing bar-tack; this transfers loads into the shoulder column. Use the lower anchor through the bottom compression strap, base webbing, or ice-axe loop so forces route toward the hip/pack base. Preferred hardware: 25 mm (1″) cam straps for bulky or wet foam; 10–12 mm continuous webbing or two 6–8 mm shock cords for lighter rolls. Route straps so they cross the roll and lock against fabric seams rather than pulling on single stitch points. Leave 5–8 cm of overlap on cam straps to ensure proper buckle engagement. If only single lower webbing exists, add a looped cord or small daisy chain to create a second independent point.
Framed and ultralight packs
On framed models, anchor to the lid strap or frame-mount lash points for the upper connection and to the lower frame loop or side compression straps for the lower; these points channel load into the frame and hipbelt. Keep external loads low and centered – place the roll so its center sits within 5 cm of the pack’s backpanel to avoid levered torque on the frame. For ultralight designs with minimal webbing, use 6–8 mm dyneema cord or 10 mm tubular webbing and employ two redundant knots or a cord-lock to protect fragile seam attachment. Limit external pad weight to about 0.7–1.5 kg on ultralight fabrics; heavier items should be packed inside or carried separately to avoid seam failure. Always perform a short walk test (50–100 m) after lashing and re-tension if any movement appears.
Securing a Rolled Foam Pad with Built-in Compression Straps
Place the roll horizontally under the lid or along the back panel, then pass the upper compression strap over the center and tighten until the roll diameter is about 60–70% of its uncompressed size; do not compress below 50% to avoid permanent foam set.
- Pre-tension: wrap a short 10–15 mm webbing strap around the roll itself before using the pack’s straps; this prevents slippage during initial tightening.
- Strap routing: feed the pack’s top strap over the roll and back into the buckle, then route the bottom strap under the roll (between roll and hipbelt) so the two straps create opposing forces that lock the pad laterally.
- Compression sequence: tighten bottom strap first to seat the roll against the pack, then tighten top strap to set diameter; repeat each once more to remove any remaining play.
- Anti-flap security: run a short piece of 3–4 mm accessory cord through the roll’s core or around the webbing and tie with a trucker’s hitch to the pack’s daisy chain or lower lash point; this secondary tether prevents flapping in crosswinds.
- Protect foam from abrasion: place a 30–40 cm length of nylon or thin closed-cell sheet between webbing and foam at contact points, especially where buckles press against the roll.
- Orientation for stability: for long loads carry roll lengthwise along the spine under the lid; for minimalist loads carry it horizontally across the bottom lash points so weight sits lower and stability increases.
Quick-access and overnight changes
For one-night stops leave a single strap loose but secured with a quick-release loop or a wrist-sized bungee so the roll can be removed without rethreading buckles; for frequent open/close cycles use a small carabiner on the quick-release loop as a handle.
Wind and trail behavior
- For exposed ridgelines add a third forward-facing tether to the sternum strap or front daisy chain; tension that tether only enough to stop flap, not to compress the foam further.
- If rain is expected, stow the roll in a lightweight dry sack before strapping to prevent saturation and foam weight gain.
For improvised weather cover while packing or resting, a garden umbrella can shield the roll from sun and light rain–see best green solar patio umbrella for an example of a robust, portable option.
Using daisy chains and accessory straps for side or front carry
Recommendation: choose two daisy-chain anchor points 10–15 cm apart and a 1.2–1.8 m accessory strap (20–25 mm webbing) with a cam or ladderlock to secure a rolled foam or inflatable pad on the pack’s side or front.
Route: feed the strap from inside the daisy chain out through the lower rung, wrap around the pad, return through the upper rung and tension the cam; lock with a second pass through the cam and finish with a half hitch or overhand on the loose tail to prevent slippage. Add a rubber keeper or short elastic to trap excess webbing.
Placement rules: for side carry set the pad axis longitudinally and position the lower edge 2–4 cm above the hipbelt so the hipbelt can still sit flush; for front carry center the pad on the torso line between sternum and solar plexus to keep load balance and allow hipbelt use. Shift the pad ±3 cm left/right to compensate for zipper pockets or external bottles.
Tension and anti-sway: tighten until the pad does not move under a firm tug; then add a secondary short strap (30–50 cm) tied as a cross-strap to the opposite daisy chain point or sternum strap anchor to eliminate pendulum motion. For heavier foam use two parallel accessory straps spaced 8–12 cm apart.
Materials and wear prevention: use 20–25 mm webbing for loads up to 25 kg; choose a cam rated ≥400 N. Pad edges that rub against webbing deserve a 5–10 mm loop of nylon tubing or a thin polycarbonate guard to stop abrasion. For ultralight setups, replace cams with a dyneema cord + trucker’s hitch and a tiny cordlock (cord diameter 2–3 mm).
| Pad type | Recommended strap length | Webbing width | Buckle/knot choice | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rolled foam (wide) | 1.5–1.8 m | 25 mm | Cam + half hitch | Use two straps parallel for stability |
| Inflatable (rolled) | 1.2–1.5 m | 20 mm | Ladderlock or cam | Avoid over-torqueing valves when cinching |
| Folded closed-cell | 1.0–1.4 m | 20 mm | Trucker’s hitch on dyneema | Good for ultralight rucksacks |
| Long expedition pad | 1.8–2.2 m | 25 mm | Cam + backup knot | Use reinforced daisy points or webbing loop |
Maintenance and extra resources: inspect cams for grit and replace frayed webbing; for cleaning or treating gear materials see best bottled pressure wash for house exterior.
Fastening an inflatable pad to prevent twisting and noise
Use two staggered low-profile straps plus lateral anti-rotation stops and soft-sheath damping: one strap near the top edge, one near the bottom edge, plus two small side tabs to block rotation and foam/silicone protection where straps cross valves or buckles.
- Place pad so its valve faces inward toward the pack body and the longest smooth surface is against the contact area; this reduces flap and direct buckle contact.
- Install primary straps:
- Ultralight setup: 12 mm (1/2″) webbing with low-profile ladder-locks or micro-cams; length ~60–90 cm depending on pack height.
- Standard setup: 25 mm (1″) webbing with flat cam or low-noise side-release buckles; length ~80–120 cm.
- Tensioning guideline: cinch until the pad resists a 90° twist test – when you grab the top edge and twist, rotation should be under 15° and the pad should not slip more than 10 mm along the seam line.
- Add two lateral anti-rotation stops about one-third down from each end:
- Use short sewn webbing loops, daisy-chain loops, zip-ties through lash points, or 2–3 cm Velcro tabs fixed to the pad body.
- Place these on opposite sides so they engage the pack’s side webbing or a shoulder strap to block roll.
- Protect valves and hardware: route straps clear of the valve stem; if unavoidable, slide split foam tubing (6–10 mm wall) over the strap where it crosses the valve to prevent puncture and rubbing noise.
- Noise damping options:
- Wrap buckles with neoprene sleeve or split pipe insulation to mute clatter.
- Run a thin length (2–3 mm) of elastic cord parallel to each main strap and tension lightly to preload the pad; elastic takes shock and reduces slap noise.
- Apply 30×50 mm silicone or rubber anti-slip pads at two contact points (head and foot) to stop micro-movement and squeak.
- Hardware choices:
- Avoid exposed metal cams or large buckles that can ping; choose molded nylon micro-cams or ladder-locks with short tails secured by a small Velcro tab.
- Use low-profile webbing end-lengths of 8–12 cm; tuck the remainder under the lid or into a tail keeper to prevent flapping.
- Field quick-fix kit: 2 zip-ties, two 12 mm elastic cord loops with toggles, two self-adhesive non-slip squares, one 10 cm piece of split foam tubing.
Final check: perform a one-minute walk with normal gait; nothing should shift, straps must remain snug without compressing air channels, and no hard parts should clack against the outer surface.
Wrapping and tying a pad without built-in straps or buckles
Quick recommendation: use a two-point figure‑8 lashing tightened with a trucker’s hitch on 550 paracord (4–5 m) for maximum security; for minimal bulk choose 25 mm tubular webbing (100–150 cm) finished with a constrictor knot.
Materials and target sizes
Paracord: 4–5 m of 550 (use 3 m for short pads under 120 cm). Webbing: 25 mm × 100–150 cm for one strong loop; 25 mm × 60–80 cm for secondary tie. Elastic cord: 2 × 20–30 cm shock cords or inner‑tube loops to prevent end flaring. Cord locks (small) to hold loose ends. Aim for a finished roll diameter of 6–12 cm for foam; 8–10 cm for closed‑cell pads for better stability on the pack’s exterior.
Two reliable methods
Method A – Figure‑8 with paracord (best for secure, low‑slip hold)
1) Roll the pad tightly from one short edge to the other, keeping edges aligned; compress by hand to target diameter. 2) Position one clove hitch around the roll ~35–45 cm from the roll’s end to form the first anchor. 3) Lead the working end across the roll, under the opposite side, back over and down to form a figure‑8; repeat for the second lashing 30–40 cm away. 4) Create a loop for a trucker’s hitch by forming a bight on the working line, pass the running end through it, pull hard to compress the roll, then lock with two half hitches. 5) Finish with a constrictor or double overhand tucked under the lashings; trim and melt paracord ends if desired.
Spacing two lashings ~30–40 cm apart prevents rotation; use the trucker’s hitch to reach high tension without tools.
Method B – Webbing cinch (clean, low‑bulk carry)
1) Centre the webbing under the rolled pad. 2) Bring both ends up over the pad, cross them once, then route each end beneath the roll on the opposite side so the webbing forms two opposing loops. 3) Pass the ends back over the loops and thread one end through the opposite loop to create a simple friction lock; pull until snug. 4) Lock off with a constrictor knot on flat webbing or a sewn water‑knot if using cut webbing ends. 5) Add 20–30 cm elastic loops at each end to keep edges from fanning out; tuck elastic under the main webbing.
Webbing keeps profile flat and stays quiet; use a second short strap crossing perpendicular to prevent longitudinal slip if needed.
Final tips: place lashings ~30–40 cm apart to stop twisting, avoid over‑compression on lightweight inflatable pads (keep tension moderate), and route ties so knot tails are tucked under webbing or inside elastic loops to eliminate flapping noise.
Shielding a mounted pad from rain and abrasion on multi-day trips
Primary recommendation: combine a waterproof outer shell (silicone- or PU-coated nylon with welded or taped seams, hydrostatic head 3,000–10,000 mm) with an abrasion layer made from 500–1000D Cordura or a 3–6 mm closed-cell foam sleeve.
Select an outer sack with roll-top or welded roll-seal and a diaper-style closure; welded seams outperform stitched seams for prolonged exposure. If using silnylon or PU nylon with stitched seams, treat seams before departure with a silicone-based seam sealer (e.g., McNett Seam Grip) and carry a 10–15 g tube for field touch-ups.
Cut 5×10 cm edge patches from 500D Cordura and bond them at the pad’s leading and trailing corners with Tenacious Tape or contact adhesive to prevent corner fraying. Add a 2–3 cm wide strip of 3 mm closed-cell foam under the Cordura at high-wear points to absorb repeated rubbing against shoulder straps and pack frame.
For inflation pads, insert a thin neoprene sleeve between the air-cell surface and the outer shell to prevent punctures from sharp pack hardware. For foam slabs, wrap in a doubled ripstop nylon sleeve and seam-seal the open edge with waterproof tape to stop grit ingress while keeping weight low.
Dimensional guidance: sleeve length = pad length + 8–12 cm to allow full coverage and a 3–4 cm overlap for the closure; circumference should be snug with ~1–2 cm free after dressing to minimize movement. Use 20–25 mm webbing for external retention points; place rubberized webbing keepers or silicone anti-slip strips under webbing contact areas to reduce chafe.
Noise reduction and movement control: secure the sleeve opening with a low-profile cordlock and tuck excess into a Velcro flap or clam-shell pocket; add two short elastic shockcord loops (10–12 cm) spaced 25–30 cm apart to stop twisting and slap without adding bulk.
Field repairs and consumables to carry: 5×10 cm Tenacious Tape patch, 10 g tube seam sealer, 1 m spare 20 mm webbing, 2 cordlocks, small strip of silicone anti-slip tape. Inspect seams and Cordura patches each evening and re-seat the outer shell if any slippage is detected.
Camp routine: stow the pad inside the tent vestibule or inner tent overnight to dry if wet; rotate orientation along the trail by 180° every 2–3 days to distribute abrasion zones; avoid dragging over rock or metal surfaces and lift over sharp edges.
FAQ:
How can I attach a closed-cell foam sleeping pad to the outside of my backpack so it doesn’t swing or rub?
Attach the pad flat and tight against the pack to keep it from flapping. Use two webbing straps or compression straps: one near the top and one near the bottom of the pad. Thread the straps through the pad’s cutouts or around its centre, pull snug, and lock the buckles so the pad sits close to the frame. If your pack has daisy chains or lash points on the front, run the straps through those for extra security. Add a simple protective layer such as a lightweight stuff sack, trash compactor bag, or a bit of taped fabric between the pad and rough fabric to prevent abrasion. After securing, walk a short distance and check the straps for slippage; tighten again if the pad moves.
What’s the best way to carry an inflatable sleeping mat on a multi-day hike to avoid punctures and keep my pack balanced?
If the mat fits, pack it inside in a dry bag. If you must carry it externally, put the mat in a durable dry sack or padded sleeve first to block punctures and moisture. For balance and reduced leverage, keep the mat as close to the pack body as possible: lash it vertically along the back panel under the lid or horizontally under the bottom with low-profile compression straps. Use at least two attachment points so it cannot pivot; loop straps through the mat’s roll or around the sack, then cinch tight. Avoid letting the mat hang low where it can hit rocks or trail obstacles. If you use bungee cords, pair them with fixed straps so the mat doesn’t bounce loose. Check valves are fully closed and carry a small repair kit for field patches. Finally, periodically inspect contact areas for wear and re-tighten straps during breaks to maintain a stable load and reduce rubbing.
