Michael Turner
Use two attachment points: one low, routed through the pack’s load-haul loop or hipbelt anchor, and one high, clipped to the daisy chain or top lid strap. Leave minimal slack so the frames sit within 5–10 cm of the centreline; this reduces sway and keeps the centre of mass close to your torso.
Expect most modern traction frames to add about 1–2.5 kg (2.2–5.5 lb) per pair; metal crampons or replacement hardware add another 0.15–0.4 kg. If total exterior load exceeds 2.5 kg, move the frames closer to the pack backplate and reduce other high-mounted items to avoid back fatigue.
For low-profile mounting on long approaches, rotate frames 10–15° so the tails angle toward the trail; that improves step clearance and reduces snagging on trees. Use a neoprene sleeve or lightweight stuff sack between metal parts and pack fabric to prevent abrasion and ice buildup. Add a short length of 6 mm cord or a locking carabiner as a fail-safe tether for the top clip.
When frequent transitions are expected, keep one binding buckle accessible and use quick-release straps on the high anchor. For steep ascents where balance matters, relocate the frames from the exterior to the side compression straps so they sit no higher than 30 cm above the hipbelt; this lowers torque on the shoulders. Pack a spare 25 mm strap, two small locking carabiners and a 20–30 cm piece of cord in the hipbelt pocket for field repairs.
Choose mounting position: pack exterior, side loop, or front haul
Recommendation: For long, non-technical approaches mount traction frames low and flat on the pack exterior; for narrow trails or to free shoulder movement use a vertical side-loop; for steep, technical approaches use a diagonal front-haul that positions the frames close to your torso for quick deployment.
Exterior low-profile
Use the lower compression straps or sleeping-pad straps to secure frames horizontally. Target a gap of 10–15 cm (4–6 in) between frame and pack surface to avoid sway. Route at least two attachment points: primary through the frame opening, secondary a short safety tether to the hip-belt D‑ring. Orient bindings and hardware toward the pack so metal points face outward from the trail. Recommended hardware: 5–8 kN locking carabiners or sewn webbing loops; webbing tail left at 10–20 cm to allow re-tensioning. Tighten until there is no audible rattle.
Side-loop and front-haul
For side-loop mounting run compression straps vertically and position the frames so their top sits near shoulder height; this keeps the center of mass lateral and preserves torso rotation. When choosing a front-haul, angle the frames 30–45° across the chest from shoulder to opposite hip and secure the upper end to the shoulder strap and the lower end to the hip-belt or lower lash points. Add a 20–30 cm secondary tether with a locking carabiner to prevent loss if a strap fails. Place bindings outward for faster removal and add a small foam pad where metal contacts torso to prevent abrasion.
Attach frames vertically to pack: strap placement and tensioning steps
Place the traction frames vertically with tails pointing down and binding plates facing outward; fasten with two main webbing straps plus a short mid-frame stabilizer so the unit sits snug against the pack without rocking.
Strap placement
Use two 25–38 mm (1–1.5″) flat webbing straps with cam or ladder-lock buckles. Upper strap: route across the frames about 15–20 cm below the top tip, aligned with shoulder-strap level on the pack. Lower strap: place across the frames roughly 20–25 cm above the tails, corresponding to hip-belt height. Mid stabilizer: add a 10–12 cm length of webbing or shock cord around the center of the frames through the pack’s daisy chain or a gear loop to prevent fore-aft swing. If frames have metal crampon points, position them facing away from the pack fabric and insert a 3–5 mm closed-cell foam pad between metal and pack.”
Tensioning steps
1) Thread each strap through the frame hoop then through the pack attachment point so webbing lies flat and perpendicular to the frame. 2) Hand-tighten the lower strap first until frames stop sliding; then tighten the upper strap until frames sit flush against the pack panel. 3) Apply one additional firm pull on each cam buckle (about the force of a strong handshake) – avoid exceeding this to prevent distorting bindings. 4) Lock buckle tails and coil any excess webbing; secure tails with elastic keepers or a zip-tie so they cannot flap. 5) Test by giving the frames a sharp tug and simulating steps; if there is any rotation, add or tighten the mid-frame stabilizer and, if available, clip a short leash from the frame’s toe loop to a top gear loop as a fail-safe.
Stow traction frames inside rucksack lid or main compartment without crushing gear
Pack traction frames in a padded drybag or neoprene sleeve (6 mm closed-cell foam or 5–7 mm neoprene) and place that assembly in the lid compartment or against the internal rear wall to prevent metal teeth from contacting soft items.
- Protect: wrap frames with foam sleeve or place in a 3–6 L drybag; add a 1–2 cm foam layer over sharp points. Use electrical tape or a Velcro strap over bindings to stop snagging.
- Placement in lid: slide the wrapped frames flat into the lid pocket or top compartment so the rigid edge lies against the lid shell; this keeps pressure off sleeping quilt/insulation below.
- Placement in main compartment: position wrapped frames along the rear panel (closest to torso) so load transfers to the frame, not to soft contents; align length with the pack’s vertical axis.
- Secure: route an internal strap under the wrapped frames and tension until lateral movement is under 1 cm; single-strap tension is sufficient for frames wrapped in a sleeve. If no internal straps exist, use a short webbing loop around the frames and clip to an internal daisy or compression point.
- Load order to avoid crushing: heavy, dense items low and against the rear panel; compressible items (sleeping quilt, down jacket) below and away from frames; fragile gear (camera bodies, lenses) inside hardshell cases and stowed above or beside the wrapped frames, not beneath.
- If transporting a camera, use a rigid case and keep it separated from metal hardware – see are digital slr cameras worth it for case and lens packing notes.
- Bulky non-technical items (for example, folding chairs) should go in their own compartment or external pocket to avoid contact with frames; review size/shape before packing: best quality outdoor folding chairs with umbrella.
- Check movement after a 50–100 m walk: if frames shift or press into soft gear, add a 6 mm foam pad or reposition to the lid and re-tension straps.
Packing checklist: wrapped frames, 1–2 cm foam barrier over teeth, internal strap secured with <1 cm play, heavy items low against rear panel, fragile items in hardshell cases separated from metal hardware.
Minimize noise and ice buildup: padding, cord locks, and drainage tips
Recommendation: Wrap metal rails and crampon teeth with 5–8 mm closed-cell foam or neoprene strips, secure with 3–4 mm shock cord and 4–5 mm plastic barrel cord locks, and orient frames so sharp points face downward to shed meltwater and prevent ice bridges.
Padding specifics: Use closed-cell EVA foam (5–8 mm) or neoprene sleeves cut to 40–60 mm wide for rails; attach with 25 mm (1″) hook-and-loop straps or 3M double-sided adhesive where permanent wrapping is acceptable. For pivot bars and bolt heads, slide 8–12 mm silicone tubing or electrical heat-shrink (30–40 mm lengths) over exposed metal to eliminate rattle. Replace foam after ~100 km of use if it compresses more than 30%.
Cord locks and cord specs: Choose plastic spring-loaded barrel cord locks sized for 3–4 mm shock cord (hole ~4 mm). Use UV-stable shock cord (polypropylene core, silicone sheath) 3–4 mm diameter for low stretch; secure ends with a triple overhand or a double fisherman’s knot, then melt-seal or use a small silicone cap to prevent fraying. Position cord locks at vibration contact points (mid-rail and near toe area) to keep pads aligned; add a second lock as a fail-safe for trips longer than one day.
Drainage and anti-ice measures: Leave bindings slightly open (3–5 mm gap) so meltwater escapes; cut two 4–6 mm drainage notches at the lower edge of foam sleeves to guide flow. Store wet frames in a 1/4″ mesh sleeve between stages to retain straps but allow drainage; do not use sealed plastic bags. Apply a PTFE or silicone spray to pivot pins and metal-to-plastic contact points every 4–6 outings (avoid petroleum-based lubricants that degrade polymers). After wet sections, wipe down with a microfiber cloth and re-secure padding once dry.
Field fixes and maintenance: To free a frozen connection, pour warm (not boiling) water from an insulated bottle for 10–20 seconds onto the joint and immediately dry with a towel; use air-activated hand warmers under bindings for 2–3 minutes for localized thawing. Inspect padding, cord locks, and tubing before each trip; replace plastic cord locks after 200 compressions or if springs feel loose. For packs with built-in drainage channels and attachment loops, consult current product options: best luggage buys today.
FAQ:
Can I carry snowshoes on my backpack without a dedicated snowshoe carrier?
Yes. Most packs allow exterior attachment using straps, cords or carabiners. Place snowshoes with the frames flat against the pack back or on the side, then secure the tip and tail with two points of contact so they cannot flop. Position bindings so they do not press hard on the pack fabric, and pad any sharp crampon points with a piece of closed-cell foam, a small stuff sack or a fabric sleeve to prevent abrasion. Tighten webbing or compression straps so the snowshoes sit close to the pack body, which reduces bounce and snagging.
What is the best way to attach snowshoes to minimize swinging and noise during steep descents?
Use two attachment points: one near the top of the snowshoe frame and one near the tail. Lash the snowshoes snugly against the pack frame or hip-belt area so they rest close to your back and cannot pivot. If your pack has a daisy-chain or gear loops, thread a strap through the snowshoe frame and clip a carabiner to a lower loop, then tension a second strap across the middle. Add a short piece of shock cord or velcro strap over the center of the pair to stop the frames from rattling against one another. Finally, make sure crampon teeth and metal edges face away from the pack fabric and are padded where they contact the pack.
Are there special precautions when carrying snowshoes that have crampons or metal spikes attached?
Yes. Metal points can damage pack fabric and can snag on clothing or skin. If you can, remove crampons before stowing the snowshoes. If removal is not practical, protect the pack by covering the metal with foam, a dedicated crampon pouch, or wrap the entire binding area in a durable cloth. Carry the snowshoes so the sharp parts are oriented outward and secured away from the pack body using a short sling or carabiner that creates a few centimeters of separation. Also avoid placing heavy pressure on the bindings while they are attached, since buckles and webbing can deform under strain. Check attachment hardware periodically on the trail; vibration and bumps can loosen straps.
How should I carry two pairs or oversized modern snowshoes on a single backpack without upsetting balance?
If you must carry two pairs, stack them together back-to-back with frames nested if their shapes allow, then compress them with two straps—one high and one low—to form a single bundle. Mount that bundle centered on the pack back and close to your spine so weight remains near your body’s center. For long or wide shapes, consider splitting pairs: one pair on the pack back and one pair on the side, but keep side-mounted snowshoes high and secured to the torso so they do not pull on your hips. Use the pack’s hip-belt and sternum strap to stabilize the load and shift heavier items inside the pack lower and toward the rear to counterbalance the external gear. Test the setup with a short walk and adjust strap tension before committing to rough terrain.
