Michael Turner
Recommendation: Cut two rectangles 30 × 40 cm from 10 oz cotton canvas; use 1 cm seam allowances, two cords 150 cm each (6 mm diameter), optional 10 mm cord locks, and set stitch length to 3.0–3.5 mm. Expected assembly time: 30–45 minutes for one unit.
Materials: 0.6 m main fabric (140 cm wide) or one 30 × 40 cm panel + scraps for lining, 0.5 m lightweight lining (optional), two cords 150 cm, two 10 mm cord locks or four 4 mm metal eyelets, heavy-duty 90/14 needle, polyester thread, fabric scissors, pins, ruler, iron.
Steps – 1) With right sides together, sew the two main rectangles along both long edges and one short edge using 1 cm seam; trim corners and turn right side out through the remaining open short edge. 2) Fold top edge down 2 cm twice to form a 1.5–2 cm cord casing; press and topstitch 4 mm from the folded edge, leaving two 6–8 cm openings at the sides for cord entry. 3) Install eyelets 2–3 cm from each side seam or leave openings and reinforce with bar tacks. 4) Feed each cord from one side casing opening, around the bottom, and back out the same side opening so both cord ends exit together; secure ends with knots and cord locks.
Finishing tips: use a triple stitch or backstitch at stress points (bottom corners, casing joins), reinforce with a 4–6 cm interior patch for heavier loads, set thread tension slightly higher for canvas, and wash cold before first use to minimize shrinkage. For lighter loads, substitute cotton webbing for cords and reduce cord length to 120 cm.
Select fabric type, cut list and final dimensions
Use 10–12 oz waxed canvas or 10 oz cotton duck for the outer shell; for a lighter option pick 70–100D ripstop nylon; lining: quilting cotton (4–5 oz) or lightweight ripstop. Set seam allowance = 1/2″ (12 mm) and top casing = 1″ (25 mm). Target finished external dimensions: 13″ wide × 16″ high × 3.5″ deep (33 × 41 × 9 cm).
| Piece | Qty | Cut size (in) | Cut size (mm) | Finished size (in) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main panels (outer) | 2 | 14″ × 17.5″ | 356 × 445 | 13″ × 16″ | Includes 1″ top casing + 1/2″ side & bottom seams |
| Gusset / bottom strip (outer) | 1 | 14″ × 4.5″ | 356 × 114 | 13″ × 3.5″ | Attach to lower edges of panels to form 3.5″ depth |
| Lining panels | 2 | 14″ × 17″ | 356 × 432 | 13″ × 16″ | No top casing; allow same side seams |
| Top-casing interfacing strip (optional) | 1 | 14″ × 2.5″ | 356 × 64 | – | Fuse to the casing area for stability |
| Webbing straps | 2 | 1″ × 40″ | 25 mm × 1016 | – | Length can be shortened to fit user preference |
| Cord for cinch (braided) | 2 | 90″ each | 2286 mm | – | 5–6 mm diameter; feed both ends through casing to create loops |
| Leather tabs (optional) | 2 | 2″ × 1.25″ | 50 × 32 | – | Punch 10–12 mm hole for cord; reinforce with rivet or grommet |
| Internal zip pocket (optional) | 1 | 8″ × 6″ (+ lining) | 203 × 152 | – | Zipper 6.5–7″ recommended |
| Grommets | 2 | 3/8″–1/2″ ID | 10–12 mm | – | Use metal grommets with washers for wear resistance |
Recommended thread: bonded nylon or polyester, size 40 or 50; needle: heavy-duty 90/14 for canvas, 80/12 for ripstop. Use bartacks or double backstitching at strap anchor points; add a 2″ square of 8–10 oz canvas or lightweight leather behind anchors for reinforcement. If adding leather tabs, treat and clean them as needed – see how to clean cat pee off leather for leather-care guidance.
Cut a paper or muslin prototype using the exact cut sizes to verify fit before cutting final fabric; adjust strap lengths and casing position on that mock-up if different proportions are preferred.
Mark, cut and prepare fabric pieces with seam allowances
Recommendation: mark all pattern outlines and cutting lines with a washable fabric marker; use 5/8″ (1.5 cm) seam allowances for side and bottom seams, 3/8″ (1.0 cm) for internal pocket seams, and add an extra 1″ (2.5 cm) to the top edge of main pieces to form a cord channel.
Place pattern pieces on the straight grain; align the grainline arrow parallel to the selvedge and keep directional prints consistent. For pieces cut on the fold, place the pattern edge exactly on the fold and mark the fold line with a long tailor’s tack or chalk. For nap fabrics, lay all pieces in the same nap direction and cut single layers when precision matters.
When transferring notches and match points, use short snips through both layers (for multiple layers use tailor’s tacks with contrasting thread). Mark center points for side seams and cord-entry positions with small tailor’s tacks or a removable marking pen. Label each piece with its name and orientation (e.g., front, back, lining) and write the seam allowance next to the line.
Cutting technique: for straight edges use a rotary cutter and self-healing mat for razor-sharp results; for curves and corners use sharp fabric shears. Cut exactly on the outer marking line. For stitched curves, clip notches perpendicular to the seam line to within 2–3 mm of the stitching to reduce bulk; for external corners trim the corner to a small triangle 3–4 mm from the stitching intersection and discard the triangle.
Interfacing: fuse fusible interfacing to the wrong side of exterior pieces before joining seams. Trim the interfacing 2–3 mm inside the seam allowance to prevent glue buildup in seams. For the top section that becomes the cord channel, fuse interfacing only to the outer layer and keep the interfacing piece 1/8″–1/4″ (3–6 mm) smaller than the fabric edge toward the seam allowances.
Pressing and pre-sew prep: press all seam allowances flat before assembly. For the top channel, press a 1/4″ (6 mm) turn under at the raw edge, then fold the remaining 3/4″ (19 mm) to form a 1″ (25 mm) finished channel and press firmly; tack the fold with basting stitches every 2″ (5 cm) to hold during sewing. Finish raw seam allowances with a zigzag, serge, or pinking shears to prevent fraying; trim bulky allowances to 1/4″ (6 mm) where multiple layers meet.
Final checks before stitching: verify all pattern labels, double-check placement of cord openings and pocket alignment, and count notches on opposing pieces to ensure matches. Transfer stitch lines for any reinforcement (e.g., strap anchors) using a removable marking tool and reinforce those points with interfacing or extra stitching as indicated on your pattern.
Sew main seams and box corners for bag depth
Use a 12 mm (1/2″) seam allowance, 2.5–3.0 mm stitch length, polyester all-purpose thread and a universal needle size 80 (or 90 for heavier canvas). Backstitch 6–8 mm at seam start and end; for strap attachment areas use a 10 mm backstitch or a short triple stitch over 12–15 mm.
Sew the body seams
Pin right sides together, matching notches and raw edges. Sew side seams in one continuous run from top raw edge to bottom raw edge to avoid bulk from stopping. Press seams open with a hot iron (use steam for cotton; avoid steam on coated fabrics) and trim seam allowances to 6–8 mm if multiple layers will overlap at the bottom corners. Optional: topstitch 3–4 mm from the seam on one side to flatten bulky seams and add strength.
Box the bottom corners for depth
Decide desired base depth D (recommend 4–6 cm for a compact carry sack; 6–8 cm for more capacity). At each bottom corner mark distance D along both intersecting seams from the corner point. With the bag inside out, bring the two marked points together so the side seam and bottom seam line up; draw a line perpendicular to the folded seam across the corner and stitch along that line. Stitch width should be directly on the drawn line; trim the excess corner leaving 5–6 mm seam allowance, clip the point if necessary to reduce bulk, then turn right side out and push corners neatly with a blunt tool. For heavy fabrics, grade the trimmed layers (remove some bulk from the thickest layer) before turning.
Create cord casing and reinforce cord openings
Use a 3.2 cm (1¼”) casing strip folded to produce a 1.9 cm (3/4″) finished tunnel; topstitch 3–4 mm from the inner fold and leave a 4–5 cm feed gap for cord insertion.
Measurements and stitch settings
- Finished tunnel width: 1.6–2.0 cm (5/8″–3/4″) for cords up to 5 mm; 2.5 cm (1″) for thicker rope.
- Cut casing strip: add 0.6–1.0 cm to tunnel width for folds plus fabric stretch; example for 1.9 cm tunnel cut a 3.2 cm strip.
- Topstitch: 3–4 mm from lower fold, stitch length 2.5–3.0 mm for woven cotton, 3.0–3.5 mm for canvas/duck.
- Use a heavier needle on dense fabrics: 80/12 for medium-weight, 90/14 or 100/16 for canvas.
Step-by-step: forming the tunnel and entry points
- Press the casing strip in half, then press each raw edge toward the center to trap raw edges; align and press again so one side is slightly wider to form the tunnel.
- Pin or clip the casing to the upper edge of the bag body, matching markings; baste 3 mm from the inner fold to stabilise before final stitching.
- Topstitch 3–4 mm from the lower fold across the full width, leaving a 4–5 cm opening where indicated for cord insertion.
- Reinforce the feed gap with a 5×6 cm patch of medium-weight fusible interfacing on the wrong side; press in place before finishing stitches.
For cord routing, attach a safety pin or bodkin to the cord end and pull through the tunnel; tie ends or attach cord stops outside the bag.
Reinforcement options for cord openings
- Light fabrics: fuse a small rectangle (4×6 cm) of woven interfacing behind the slit, cut a 6–8 mm slit, then overcast the slit with dense zigzag or sew a narrow bar tack (10–12 stitches) on each side of the opening.
- Medium/heavy fabrics: punch a hole sized to the grommet (commonly 6–8 mm inner diameter), install a metal grommet using a setter kit; use brass or nickel-plated grommets for outdoor exposure.
- High-wear solution: sandwich a leather or heavy canvas patch (approx. 3×4 cm) on the wrong side, then apply bar tacks (12–16 dense stitches) perpendicular to the tunnel to lock the opening.
Tools and consumables: grommet kit (6–8 mm), awl or hole punch, fusible woven interfacing (light/medium), heavy-duty needle, polyester cord (3–5 mm) or paracord for durability.
Weather-resistant recommendation: for items exposed to the elements choose polyester or nylon cord and brass grommets; relevant outdoor gear examples include best fiberglass patio umbrella and best light weight umbrella stroller for infant to toddler.
- Finishing cord ends: melt synthetic cord tips briefly with a lighter and press flat, or cap with metal cord ends/crimps for a clean, snag-free finish.
- Avoid cutting reinforcement holes too close to side seams; place openings 2.5–3 cm from each side seam to retain structure.
Insert drawcords, finish top edge and check strap fit
Cut two cords 200 cm (80 in) for adult size or 150 cm (60 in) for child size; use 4–6 mm braided polyester for durability or 3–4 mm cotton for a softer feel. Add 30 cm (12 in) per cord as threading and knot allowance if using bulky material.
With casings already folded and pressed, attach a small safety pin or bodkin to one cord end and feed it through the right channel until it exits the opposite top opening; continue the same cord down through the side seam tunnel (if present) and out the bottom corner. Tie a double overhand knot with a 2.5–3 cm (1 in) tail, flatten the knot with pliers if using metal crimps, or secure with a 16 mm cord crimp and trim 1 cm (3/8 in) beyond the crimp. Repeat symmetrically with the second cord from the left channel so cords form two shoulder loops.
Press the top edge flat and topstitch at 3 mm (1/8 in) from the folded edge with a 2.5 mm stitch length; add a second row 8–10 mm (5/16–3/8 in) from the first row to lock the casing and reduce cord slippage. Use a longer stitch (3.0–3.5 mm) and a walking foot on heavier fabric; backstitch 6–8 mm only over the casing openings to avoid bulk.
Test strap length on a person wearing typical load: adult desired strap drop 40–50 cm (16–20 in); child 30–36 cm (12–14 in). Load the bag with 1–2 kg while testing. If straps are too long, re-thread and shorten by tying an internal knot inside the casing or add a discreet cord stop; if too short, replace cords with ones 30–50 cm (12–20 in) longer or add a short extension secured with a crimp and bar tack.
Finish cord ends: heat-melt synthetic fibres 3–5 mm from the end and press flat (use pliers and heat-resistant surface), or whip natural cord ends with six passes of polyester thread and a dab of clear fabric glue. Reinforce each bottom attachment with a 2 cm × 2 cm (¾ in × ¾ in) patch and three rows of straight stitching or a 25 mm (1 in) bartack, then trim excess cord leaving 2 cm (¾ in) beyond the reinforcement.
