Michael Turner
Use two webbing straps, each 90–120 cm long, routed under the frame and over the compressed roll; place the roll so its centerline sits within 10–12 cm of the shoulder blades and below the top load shelf. Compress the bivy in a compression sack to a diameter under 20 cm to reduce pendulum forces and keep the external mass low and tight against the pack frame.
Fasten one strap on each side, run the loose ends across the roll and form an adjustable loop to create a trucker’s hitch for mechanical advantage; cinch until there is no visible gap between roll and frame. Finish each line with two half-hitches and tuck excess webbing into the ladder-lock or wrap it with elastic to prevent flapping. If you prefer cord, use a 6–8 mm accessory cord and back it up with a short webbing strap for abrasion resistance.
Limit external load on the rucksack to 3–4 kg (6–9 lb); heavier items should go inside the main compartment or be split between lid and lower pockets to keep the center of gravity within 10–15 cm of your torso. Orient the foot end forward to reduce snagging on descents and place a thin foam pad between the roll and shoulder area to avoid pressure on the harness and zipper channels.
Check tension after the first 1 km or 30 minutes of walking and again after steep sections; retighten the trucker’s hitch if any movement appears. For wet conditions, use a waterproof dry sack around the compressed kit and route straps over the cover. If bounce persists, add a short shock cord across the roll or a secondary strap through the lower compression points to damp oscillation.
Top-strap method: secure a rolled bivy on the lid
Use 25–32 mm (1–1.25 in) nylon webbing with a low-profile cam or 1″ side-release buckle; aim for a roll diameter of 18–25 cm (7–10 in) and keep the lid load under 2.5 kg (5.5 lb).
Route the strap through the lid’s daisy chain, haul loop or dedicated top loop, run it across the roll’s short axis, feed it through the buckle and cinch until the roll contacts the lid with roughly 10–20% compression of its original diameter.
For rolls longer than ~40 cm (16 in) add a second strap crossing at 30–45° to the first to form an X; this prevents longitudinal flop and reduces side-to-side swing on rough terrain.
Prevent slippage with a thin silicone- or rubber-backed pad between lid and roll, or wrap the webbing once around the roll before buckling to increase friction; secure excess webbing with an elastic keeper or a small Velcro loop to eliminate flapping noise.
Place the load centered over the lid and aligned with shoulder strap anchors to minimize rotational torque; move heavier items into the main compartment or lower pockets so the top-mounted roll remains a light, stable carry.
Use a lightweight compression stuff sack or dry sack for the roll to keep shape consistent and reduce wind catch; if crossing trails with dense branches, route the strap under the lid lip when possible to shield the buckle from snagging.
Bottom lash: secure a compression or stuff sack under the hip belt
Place the compression or stuff sack directly beneath the hip belt, centered over the iliac crests and within 5 cm of the belt seam; route the pack’s lower compression straps or a 6 mm cord (2.5–3 m) through the sack’s lash points and tighten until the pouch sits flush against the hip-belt foam.
Step-by-step
1) Position the pouch with its long axis parallel to the ground so zippers/closure face upward or toward the rear for protection. 2) Use the pack’s existing lower compression straps if available: feed each strap through corresponding webbing on the pouch and back into the buckle, apply even tension. 3) If no straps are available, use a 6 mm accessory cord: pass the cord under the hip-belt webbing (not over the foam), thread through the pouch’s lash points, form a midline loop for a trucker’s hitch, cinch, and finish with two half-hitches. 4) Remove slack from both sides so the pouch cannot swing; secure any excess cord by wrapping it around the pack’s lower frame or stashing under the hip-belt webbing.
Placement, load and checks
Keep external weight low: limit the pouch to about 2 kg for comfort and stability; heavier items belong inside the main compartment near the hip belt. Maintain less than 5–10 cm separation between the pouch and belt padding to preserve load transfer. After securing, walk 20–30 paces, jog in place and lift one knee to confirm no rubbing, buckle obstruction or pendulum movement; retighten if any shift occurs. Cover exposed straps with a rain skirt or tuck them into the lower pocket to avoid snagging on brush.
Daisy-chain and cord lashing: use side daisy chains for horizontal carry
Mount the roll horizontally at hip-belt height and create a cradle by threading a 4–6 mm static cord through two side daisy-chain loops on each side, then tension with a trucker’s hitch or a taut-line hitch so the load sits within 3–5 cm of the pack frame.
Materials
- Accessory cord 4 mm (550 paracord) or 5 mm static cord – 3–6 m depending on roll length
- Two small locking carabiners or 1.5 m of 20 mm webbing for sliding anchors
- Optional: thin compression strap (15–25 mm) or elastic bungee for anti-sway
- Recommended knots: trucker’s hitch (tension), taut-line hitch (adjustable), half‑hitch (finish)
Step-by-step
- Place: align the roll crosswise so center of mass is at the pack frame level; ideal vertical placement is directly above the hip-belt line.
- Anchor points: use a lower and an upper daisy loop per side – the lower loop holds the roll’s underside, the upper loop secures the top edge.
- Cradle: clip carabiners through paired loops on each side or thread cord through the loops to form a continuous sling beneath the roll.
- Threading: pass one cord end under the roll, up through the opposite side’s upper loop, across the roll, and back down; repeat once for redundancy.
- Tension: create a trucker’s hitch on the standing line, pull to eliminate slack until the roll compresses slightly against the frame, then lock with a taut-line hitch for adjustability during the trip.
- Finish: secure tails with two half-hitches, trim or tuck excess cord into a daisy loop to prevent snags; add a short compression strap over the roll for anti-rotation if needed.
- Placement limits: keep roll overhang less than 30% of total pack height and avoid covering hip-belt pockets or sternum strap path.
- Stability tip: add a single elastic bungee from upper daisy loop to lower loop on each side to dampen bounce without altering primary tension.
- Wind and snag prevention: route cord close to pack body and tuck knot tails inside daisy loops or under shock cord.
- Maintenance: clean cords and webbing after muddy trips with a soft brush; for DIY cleaning tool instructions see how to make a loofah back scrubber.
Water protection and placement: keep an externally mounted roll dry
Use a welded roll-top drysack (10–20 L) with a hydrostatic head ≥10,000 mm and taped seams; place it under an oversized pack raincover so the cover encloses the external load completely.
Sizing and materials: 10 L fits a quilt or compact pad, 15–20 L covers a full-length inflatable mattress plus small kit. Choose 70–200D PU-coated nylon for abrasion resistance on long treks (weight 80–200 g); choose 30–40D silicone/nylon for ultralight (40–80 g) where abrasion is minimal. Avoid zipper-style watercases for external carry – roll-top closures are far more reliable in continuous rain.
Position the drysack with the opening facing upward and tucked beneath the main raincover hood or lid; this prevents direct vertical spray and runoff from seams. Center the load on the pack frame to keep it clear of side splash from muddy trail or vehicle tires. Keep the item off the lower rear panel where puddles and back-splash accumulate.
For double protection, use a thin internal liner (heavy-duty 6–8 mil contractor or a purpose-made polyethylene liner) inside the drysack and fold the roll-top twice. Add a small-length shock cord cradle or low-profile strap to prevent the sack from shifting and exposing its closure to wind-driven rain.
If storms are prolonged, transfer the external module into the tent or shelter at camp; hang it to dry on a line or spread it under the vestibule while cooking. If a full transfer isn’t possible, rig a small tarp or poncho extension over the external load to deflect splash and reduce wettime by 60–80%.
Carry a compact, oversized raincover that offers ≥20% extra volume compared with the packed pack; test that the cover seals over any external gear before leaving home. For urban or mixed travel where external carry is used frequently, check product pairings and reviews such as best luggage collaborations to match a cover and frame that fully enclose external gear.
Quick-release knots and bungee loops for fast access
Use a slipped figure-eight on a bight combined with a 6–9 mm shock cord loop routed to your hip belt for the fastest single-handed release of an externally mounted roll.
Knots that release cleanly
Slipped figure-eight on a bight: make a figure-eight on a doubled line, pass the bight through the attachment point (carabiner, webbing bar), then pull a small release loop out of the final tuck. Pulling that loop undoes the whole hitch in one motion. Leave a 6–8 cm tag loop for a positive finger grip.
Slipped overhand + locking half-hitch: form a slipped overhand around the anchor, then add a half-hitch over the slipped section to reduce accidental release. Pull the release tail to free the load; the half-hitch prevents the slipped knot from working loose from vibration.
Highwayman’s hitch: fastest to deploy but prone to jamming under moderate-to-heavy loads and less secure on slick cord. Use only for lightweight external items and inspect after every pull.
Bungee loop specs, routing and backups
Cord sizing: 6 mm (1/4″) shock cord for items under ~2 kg; 8–9 mm (5/16″–3/8″) for up to ~4–6 kg. Loop length: 25–35 cm unstretched for a single wrap around a rolled item; add 5–10 cm if you plan to pass the cord through the roll twice. Use braided hollow shock cord for better abrasion resistance.
Attachment points and orientation: anchor loops to low-profile webbing or sewn gear loops near the hip so release is reachable without removing the pack. Route the release bight outward and upward so it can be grabbed between thumb and forefinger while wearing hip belt. Clip through a small locking carabiner or an S-biner (gate facing away from straps) when you need a positive secondary catch.
Redundancy and wear: for loads >3–4 kg add a secondary non-elastic backup (small strap with quick-release buckle or a short static cord) routed separately from the elastic. Inspect elastic for core exposure or loss of elasticity before each trip; replace if surface cracking or permanent stretch exceed 15%.
FAQ:
Can I attach my sleeping bag to the outside of my backpack without damaging it?
Yes — but protect the bag before attaching it. Place the bag in a proper stuff sack, compression sack, or waterproof dry bag to shield the shell from abrasion, dirt and moisture. Avoid leaving a down bag tightly compressed for multiple days; repeated long-term compression reduces loft and insulation performance. If you must carry the bag externally, add a thin foam pad or a piece of fabric between straps and the sack where they rub, and route straps so metal hooks or buckles do not contact the fabric directly. Check attachment points regularly for wear and re-seal or relocate the bag if it starts to rub through.
How should I secure a sleeping bag so it won’t shift while hiking and keeps my pack balanced?
Think about load placement and how the bag’s size affects balance. A sleeping bag is usually light but bulky; for steady balance keep heavier gear close to your back and place the bag where it won’t pendulum. Common approaches: strap a compressed sack horizontally across the bottom of the pack if you need more stability on steep terrain, or lash it to the top when you need quick access or if the pack is already back-heavy. Use two webbing straps or two tie points rather than a single strap so the sack cannot swing. Wrap the bag tightly in its sack, pull the straps snug, and tuck any excess strap material so nothing flaps. If your pack has daisy chains or dedicated lash points, use them; daisy chains allow you to fine-tune strap position for an even hold. Finally, do a short test walk and, if the bag shifts or causes the pack to tilt, adjust placement toward the centre of the pack or move other items to rebalance.
Are bungee cords or paracord safe for lashing a sleeping bag to my pack?
Both have pros and cons. Elastic bungees are quick and forgiving but can bounce and allow the sack to shift; hooks may also snag or tear fabric. Paracord is strong and low-profile, and when tied correctly it holds very well, but it needs good knots and occasional retightening. For routine use, webbing straps with buckles give the most reliable hold and are gentler on fabric. If you use paracord, finish with a secure tension knot such as a trucker’s hitch and add a stopper knot so it won’t slip; if you use bungees, back them up with a secondary tie or use at least two attachment points to cut down on movement.
