Michael Turner
Spot-clean stains within 24 hours; perform a complete deep clean every 5–10 trips or immediately after heavy mud, salt, or sewage exposure. Detach frame, hip-belt, and removable foam before any immersion and empty all pockets and compartments.
Hand method: fill a tub with lukewarm water (20–30°C), add a mild, pH-neutral detergent at 5–10 ml per liter (≈1–2 tsp/L). Soak 15–30 minutes, agitate gently, and scrub zippers and high-wear areas with a soft brush or toothbrush. Rinse until no suds remain (typically 3 full rinses). Do not wring foam pieces; press water out gently and blot with a towel.
Machine option (only if manufacturer label allows): use a front-load washer on a delicate/gentle cycle, cold or ≤30°C, low spin (<400 rpm). Place the sack inside a large laundry bag or pillowcase, fasten all straps and zips, remove metal or plastic frames and hip-belt pads, and use the same mild detergent dosage. No bleach, no fabric softener.
Drying and restoration: air dry in shaded, well-ventilated area on a flat or hanging position that preserves shape; expect 12–48 hours depending on humidity. Avoid tumble drying and direct sun exposure above 40°C. When outer fabric no longer beads water, reapply a spray-on durable water repellent following product doses. Lubricate zippers with silicone or paraffin-based dressings and treat leather trim with appropriate conditioner.
Odor and mildew: for persistent smells, add 60–120 ml (¼–½ cup) white vinegar to the final rinse or spot-treat mildew with a 1:4 vinegar:water solution; test a hidden seam first. Always ensure complete drying before storage and store in a cool, dry place with ventilation or loosely stuffed with acid-free paper to retain form.
Inspect fabric, coatings and zippers to select the correct cleaning method
Perform a water-bead test and a colorfastness check before any cleaning: bead = DWR or coated surface; soak = uncoated or porous textile; color rubs off on a damp white cloth = unstable dye.
Fabric and coating identification
- Nylon (ripstop, 200–1000D): generally robust; safe to soak in cool water (≤30°C) with mild, non-detergent cleaner. Avoid high agitation to reduce abrasion of coatings.
- Polyester: similar to nylon but less prone to stretching; machine gentle cycle cold (≤30°C) acceptable for uncoated types.
- Cordura/ballistic nylon (high denier): use soft brush to remove surface grime before soaking; avoid prolonged mechanical tumbling to prevent abrasion.
- PU-, PVC-, TPE-laminated fabrics and silicone-coated fabrics: do not use hot water (>30°C), strong solvents, or bleach; hand-soak briefly and rinse thoroughly to avoid delamination.
- ePTFE/membrane laminates (Gore-Tex and equivalents): use detergent formulated for membranes or a mild technical cleaner; avoid fabric softeners and waterproofing products not designed for membranes.
- Canvas and waxed cotton: test small area for colorfastness; reproof waxed fabric with manufacturer wax after cleaning; do not use detergents that strip waxing unless plan to re-wax.
- Foam backpanels and shoulder pads: remove or shield from prolonged soaking; dry fully between layers to prevent mold.
Specific checks and numeric limits
- Temperature: keep rinse/soak water at ≤30°C for laminated/coated textiles; ≤40°C safe for most durable uncoated synthetics but avoid to preserve adhesives and coatings.
- pH and cleaners: use neutral to mildly acidic cleaners formulated for outdoor gear (pH ≈6–8). Avoid bleach, oxy-bleach, fabric softeners, and petroleum solvents.
- Mechanical stress: limit machine cycles – gentle-only, low spin; hand-cleaning preferred for coated or heavily soiled gear.
- Drying: air-dry in shade with good airflow; direct sun or high heat accelerates coating breakdown. If using low heat to reactivate DWR, follow product instructions and keep tumble temperature low (manufacturer often specifies “low” or ≤40°C).
Perform a colorfastness test: moisten a hidden seam, press a white cloth for 10 seconds; visible transfer = use cold-water spot-cleaning and avoid full submersion.
For persistent oil or grease stains: pre-treat with a small amount of technical degreaser on an inconspicuous area; rinse immediately and test for coating damage.
Zippers, sliders and hardware
- Inspect for broken teeth, bent stops, missing slider pins, and corrosion. Identify material: metal sliders need different care than molded plastic teeth.
- Cleaning: flush teeth with cool water, use a soft toothbrush to remove grit, then dry slider and tracks thoroughly to prevent rust.
- Lubrication: use a dry zipper lubricant or paraffin bar for both metal and plastic; graphite pencil works for temporary freeing of metal sliders. Avoid petroleum jelly and oily products that attract dirt.
- Waterproof zippers and taped seams: avoid aerosol lubricants and sprays that can compromise the tape’s coating; apply lubricant sparingly and away from the taped edge.
- Minor repairs: realign teeth with pliers for slight bends, replace slider for non-functional zip action; soldering or welding of metal teeth not recommended – seek replacement parts for long-term reliability.
Keep a small repair kit: spare sliders, paraffin bar or dry lube, soft brush, and a lint-free cloth for on-route maintenance.
Empty the pack and remove hipbelt, shoulder straps and hydration bladder
Empty every pocket and compartment: unzip all access points, tip the pack upside down over a bin, shake out loose debris and sand, then use a soft-bristle brush or handheld vacuum to clear seams and zipper teeth.
Detach hipbelt and shoulder straps
Unclip sternum and load‑adjustment straps, release quick‑release buckles and any Velcro anchors, then slide removable hipbelt out of its channel or unthread attachment webbing. If shoulder straps are removable, unclip or unthread them–do not force separations on sewn‑in straps. Lay detached pieces flat or hang them; inspect webbing, foam and stitching for abrasion, fraying, delamination or cracked buckles. For surface dirt, use a soft brush and a few drops of mild detergent diluted in warm water and blot with a clean cloth; avoid soaking foam paddings and never use a tumble dryer or hot heat source.
Remove, clean and dry the hydration reservoir
Disconnect the drinking tube from the reservoir, open the bite valve and empty all liquid. For routine cleaning: fill reservoir with warm water and a few drops of mild dish soap, agitate, run soapy water through the tube, scrub with a reservoir brush and tube brush, then rinse repeatedly until no soap remains. For mold or stubborn residue: fill with a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts warm water, fill the tube as well, soak 30–60 minutes, scrub and rinse thoroughly. Use manufacturer cleaning tablets as directed if available. To dry, hang the reservoir upside down with the cap open and drape the tube so water can drain; prop the reservoir open with a clean, dry towel or dedicated hanger to maintain airflow. Blow a short burst of compressed air through the tube or use a small straw to push remaining water out of the bite valve. Store the reservoir completely dry and with the tube detached or the cap open; freezing the dry bladder and tube between uses is an effective way to prevent microbial growth during long storage.
Spot-clean stains and odours with mild soap and a soft brush
Mix 1 teaspoon (≈5 ml) of pH-neutral mild soap per 500 ml lukewarm water; use this solution for targeted stain removal and odour control.
Procedure
Test first: apply a drop of the diluted soap to an inconspicuous seam or interior patch and wait 5 minutes to check for colour loss or surface change. Use a soft nylon-bristle brush (bristles ~0.5–1 cm length) and work the suds into the stain with short, light circular motions for 20–60 seconds – enough to lift soil without abrading the face fabric. For dried mud, allow soil to fully dry, brush off loose particles, then treat remaining mark. For sweat rings, concentrate on seam lines and contact points rather than broad scrubbing across fabric.
Remove soap residue by wiping with a clean microfiber cloth dampened with plain lukewarm water; repeat blotting until no suds remain. Do not saturate inner foam or padded sections – use minimal water and change cloths frequently.
Odour control and finishing
For persistent odours, repeat the mild soap treatment and allow the area to dry completely between attempts. After rinsing, blot excess moisture and air-dry the pack in a well-ventilated area with openings unzipped and pockets open; position so gravity helps drain remaining moisture. If an absorption step is needed after full drying, sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda on the odour-affected section for 8–12 hours, then shake or vacuum out the powder.
Avoid aggressive actions: no wire brushes, no hot water, and no bleach-based products; excessive heat, harsh solvents or vigorous scrubbing can damage fabrics, coatings and seam tapes.
Hand-clean the main body: soak, gentle scrubbing and thorough rinsing
Soak the main compartment in lukewarm water (30–35°C / 86–95°F) with 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of mild, pH‑neutral detergent per 1 litre (quart) for 20 minutes.
Drain and lift the pack, then apply light mechanical action: use a soft‑bristle brush or sponge for fabric panels and a microfiber cloth for coated/DWR surfaces. Use short, parallel strokes along the weave (not circular scrubs) to dislodge embedded grit without abrading coatings. For seams and stitchlines use a toothbrush or nylon bristle brush; for corners and boot/dirt areas focus on 20–30 strokes per spot.
Do not use solvent, bleach, enzyme cleaners or laundry pods. If grease/oil is present, pre-treat with a 1:10 mixture of mild detergent to warm water and blot with a clean cloth before full soak. Close any internal sleeves and zipers lightly while scrubbing around zipper tapes to avoid snagging teeth; run each zipper through full travel after rinsing to clear trapped particles.
Rinse by alternating dunk-and-squeeze cycles with fresh water: five full changes for light soil, eight for medium, and ten for heavy contamination. Final rinse method: hold under running cold water for 60–120 seconds per compartment until no suds remain; press fabric gently to flush trapped detergent from seams and pockets. Remove excess water by pressing–do not wring coated panels.
Air-dry with the pack suspended upside down, hips/waistbelt area elevated so air circulates into the main cavity. Leave all lids, pockets and hydration sleeves open. Typical drying times: 8–12 hours in a dry, breezy location; 24+ hours in high humidity. Avoid direct sunlight longer than 30 minutes on polyurethane coatings and do not use tumble dryers or heaters.
| Soil level | Detergent (per litre) | Soak time | Scrub tool | Rinse cycles |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Light (dust, pollen) | 1 tsp / 5 ml | 15–20 min | Microfiber cloth, soft sponge | 5 dunk changes + 60 s final run |
| Medium (mud, sweat) | 1–1.5 tsp / 5–7.5 ml | 20–25 min | Soft-bristle brush, toothbrush for seams | 8 dunk changes + 90 s final run |
| Heavy (grease, persistent stains) | 2 tsp / 10 ml (pre-treat grease) | 25–30 min | Nylon brush for spots, sponge for coatings | 10+ dunk changes + 120 s final run |
For reproofing or DWR refresh after the item dries, consult product-specific dosing guides; an example reference can be found at best adders for dog food.
Machine-clean safely: secure pack, gentle cycle, cold water and mild detergent
Use a front-loading machine on the delicate or gentle cycle with cold water (≤30°C / 86°F), short programme (15–30 minutes) and a low spin speed (≤400 rpm).
Close all zippers and Velcro, fasten external buckles, and tuck loose straps inside compartments or secure them with rubber bands. Place the item inside a sturdy mesh laundry bag or a zipped pillowcase to prevent snagging. Balance the drum with one or two clean bath towels; do not add heavy garments or shoes.
Choose a liquid, non-biological detergent or a technical cleaner formulated for water-repellent gear; use roughly half the normal household dose – about 10–20 mL (0.3–0.7 fl oz) for a small load. Avoid powdered detergents, bleach, and fabric softeners, which strip coatings and clog fabrics. Run one extra rinse cycle if the machine has that option.
Cold water preserves seam taping and DWR coatings; never exceed 30°C. Keep spin speed low to reduce stress on seams and frames. If the item contains an internal frame, ensure it is either stowed securely or removed per manufacturer guidance before the cycle.
After the cycle, unzip compartments and reshape while damp. Air-dry in shade with good airflow; hang upside down so straps and pockets drain. Do not use high heat tumble-drying or direct sunlight for prolonged periods; a short low-heat tumble (manufacturer permitting) can reactivate DWR, otherwise use a specialised spray or wash-in treatment once fully dry.
Drying and restoring water repellency: air-dry, reshape and reapply DWR if needed
Air-dry in shade with good airflow; if the gear label permits, tumble-dry on low heat (30–40°C / 86–104°F) for 15–30 minutes to reactivate DWR and speed drying.
Air-dry and reshape
- Place on a broad hanger or suspend by the top loop so the main compartment is open to air; flip or rotate after 4–6 hours to equalize drying.
- Fill main cavity and pockets with dry towels or crumpled paper to restore volume and prevent collapsing–change stuffing when damp; avoid plastic fills that trap moisture.
- Use a fan or room dehumidifier to cut drying time: typical indoor dry time 6–36 hours depending on material, humidity and temperature.
- Keep out of direct sunlight and away from radiators–prolonged UV or surface temperatures above ~60°C (140°F) accelerates coating breakdown and fabric degradation.
- For extra support during drying, consider external stands or internal shaping aids such as a weighted stand or soft inserts: best weighted umbrella stand for golf umbrellas and best messenger bag dslr inserts.
Reapplying durable water repellency (DWR)
- Confirm surface is clean and fully dry. Apply only to textile outer faces; skip PU- or PVC-coated interiors because DWR provides no benefit there.
- Choose product: spray-on for targeted reproofing and mixed-material items; wash-in for whole-item, evenly distributed treatment. Common options: Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On, Grangers Performance Repel, Gear Aid Revivex.
- Test a small, inconspicuous area first. Spray from 20–25 cm (8–10 in) keeping a uniform pass pattern; avoid heavy pooling–wipe excess after 5–10 minutes with a clean cloth.
- Activate per product instructions: tumble-dry low 15–30 minutes if label allows, or use a warm iron through a thin cloth on low/no-steam setting for textiles that accept ironing. If activation by heat is not possible, allow 12–24 hours curing time at room temperature.
- Post-treatment check: place water droplets on treated area–beading indicates successful reproofing; if absorption occurs, repeat application once more rather than heavy single pass.
- Safety: work outdoors or in a ventilated area, wear gloves, avoid inhalation and contact with zippers or plastic hydration ports; store products per manufacturer directions.
FAQ:
Can I wash my hiking backpack in a washing machine?
Many packs are not suited for machine washing. Check the manufacturer’s label first. If it allows machine washing, empty all pockets, remove detachable hip belt or frame, close zippers and use a gentle cold-water cycle with a small amount of mild detergent. Place the pack in a pillowcase or mesh bag to reduce stress on straps and hardware. After the cycle, rinse any soap residue by hand if needed and hang the pack to air-dry; do not use a dryer or direct heat.
How do I get dried mud and stubborn stains out without damaging the fabric or waterproof coating?
Let heavy mud dry and brush off loose dirt with a soft-bristled brush. For remaining stains, mix lukewarm water with a small amount of mild soap and scrub gently with a sponge or soft brush, concentrating on seams and high-use areas. Avoid bleach, strong solvents or fabric softeners, which can break down coatings and webbing. Rinse the cleaned areas thoroughly until water runs clear. If water repellency looks reduced after cleaning, apply a recommended wash-in or spray-on water-repellent treatment designed for outdoor fabrics; test any product on a small hidden patch first.
My pack has a foam back panel and stitched-on hip belt with sewn-in foam. How should I clean these parts and preserve the pack’s waterproofing and structural parts?
Start by emptying the pack and removing any detachable components such as a removable frame or pockets. Open all compartments and turn the pack upside down to shake out debris and grit. Use a soft brush and a bowl of lukewarm water with mild soap to clean padded areas and the webbing; press gently rather than wringing or twisting foam and padded sections. For internal frames or stays, remove them when possible and wipe them separately with a damp cloth. Rinse padding and fabric thoroughly to remove soap; trapped soap can attract dirt and reduce breathability. Air-dry the pack in shade with good airflow, hanging it upside down so pockets clear and water drains away. Avoid prolonged sun exposure or hot drying sources that can degrade adhesives and water-repellent finishes. Once fully dry, reapply a suitable water-repellent product if water beads no longer form on fabric; follow the product instructions and allow proper curing time before storage or reuse.
